Vous en pensez quoi ? C'est trop? Revolver pietta 1858.

To those who have built a Cetme C or VZ61, I am looking at getting a welder to start practicing and to eventually build a Cetme C kit. I have progressed through assembling ARs, 1911s, and gone the 3d2a route across multiple builds, but looking to expand the skillset. With the goal of eventually learning and applying TIG welding on a very limited scale, would something like the Harbor Freight BERGER 3-in-1, 135 Amp Multiprocess Welder with 120V Input be an adequate starting point and capable of doing the Cetme's receiver. Not looking to invest in a professional setup, just something that can handle the builds I have in mind and the once or twice a year small jobs around the property. Thanks!

I have had this Cetme C flat from RTG and from my understanding they are the worst receiver flat you can get. However I wanted the original Cetme look. From what I have read from other builds once you get to the point of welding it you need to hammer a bolt through in order to open the grooves up a little bit. My problem is though I have hammer the bolt through probably 30 or so times and was wi seeing if anyone had other advice for me?

Just picked up a Sten mk3 parts kit, this will be my first build ever and I need some help understanding a few things.

1.) Using a mk3 tube (non vented) from sten parts, how do you instal the barrel bushings both front and rear and how do you instal the barell? From what I understand you use rivets for the bushings but how does all that work and how'd you do it?

2.) Whats the best method to remove the old sten tube from the rest of the parts

3.) What helped you weld the Magwell in place correctly?

Im a little slow so barney style words and pictures help alot. Thank you!

If I broke any rules im sorry (I did read them to make sure I didn't break any but just in case..)

Thought id do a quick tutorial on how to modify an original trigger box and fcg to work in the recent Marcolmar recievers.

step 1: Cut out a slot for the denial bar. Hardest part on the conversion but easily doable with a dremel. Just measure approximately .540-.550 from the front of the housing and cut a straight line that ends in a slight curve towards the bottom. will likely require some hand fitting but is very doable. make sure to cut/grind away the detent area for the trip lever both for clearance and to ensure the trip lever cant be installed.

step 2: Remove the bushing from the trip lever. this is needed to join the trigger and disconnector with the through pin. The bushing is a separate piece pressed into the trip lever, which is easily removed by cutting or grinding. I just bent the trip lever until it snapped and removed it that way.

step 3: Block the FA area of the selector. Im not sure if this is technically required, but for the sake of CYA i did it. Just a small blob of weld is all thats needed to deny it from going to FA.

step 4: assemble as normal keep in mind that this is a general guide and small adjustments may be needed.

Other possible issues: On mine the interior end of the selector was a few thou too long and i needed to remove a small amount of material. This also was required for the detent nub that interacts with the notches (it was incredibly stiff but with a sanding flap wheel and some polishing it did wonders for it).

Hopefully this will save you buys a few bucks and keep some original parts still in use!

Just looking to see if it worth getting I’ve only ever used plastic ones

Waiting for the last couple parts to arrive today, I am looking forward to making her functional. I’ll post more photos later today
Let me see YOUR first AR vuild??

Anyone know where to find an Indianapolis Sten semi bolt kit? Also need a MKII tube but that's less critical.

Sear shelf milled off bolt. Bolt through drilled, recoil rod drilled for firing pin clearance. Made the firing pin out of a drill rod blank. Made firing pin guide bushing from 4340, hardened and pressed it into the bolt face. Now to machine the semi fcg. Essentially a scaled up VZ61 fcg.

I was wondering if I could cut my receiver tube an inch shorter. I know they have 1" shortened receiver tubes for the MK2, so was curious if I could do the same with an MK3... Could it be cut more than 1", possibly 2"?

Lastly I had ordered a receiver tube blank from sten parts . Com and didn't realize that it was a chromoly tube... It is nice and thin and I do like the fact that it is laser etched for where you need to cut out, but I have never tried welding chromoly especially to mild stell which the parts kit is all made from. Does anyone know where I could find a mild steel tube that's thin wall like the chromoly tube? I've looked everywhere and can't seem to find something within the specs of the original tube.

Are the magazines reliable? I have a few that are blocked to 10rds and was wondering if they are going to give me issues constantly....

Lastly, this is just out of curiosity and am asking for sh*TS and giggles, but I noticed that they have brass bolts which speed up the cyclic rate on the fa version. Is there any other way to speed up the cyclic rate? I'm wanting to shorten the tube for aesthetics and am going to be building a sa, but hypothetically would that raise the cyclic rate? Would a neoprene buffer installed behind the spring help raise the cyclic rate or would it just cause it to jamb more?

Thinking about grabbing a 307 in 22 creed and throwing it in an ultradyne chassis, but never been around a weatherby. Curious what to expect out of the action and accuracy. Quality? Or not so much.

This will be a squeeze a few off maybe out to 500yds for fun. Mainly a slap a thermal on it and chase dogs. I have some custom actions but going down the “cheaper” side this time. Thanks guys

I have completed the PPS43 barrel shroud repair section tooling. Anyone looking to build a PPS43 from a parts kit, you may need this piece.

Decided to do a video series of this fun build

I'm looking for sources of decent cerakote and powder coat for quantities around 16oz or less. My wife bought me some online with a kit which has been great. But the powder coat is not hard enough with some brands and seems too soft and fairly easily scratched. Or possibly I'm doing something wrong? Prep is washing down with parts cleaner and bead blasting. These packs say to bake 10min at 400. Photos of what I've played around with so far.

under 6.7 in length want something that isn't gonna be two gassy on my 300blk mostly subs but it's a tucked build want it to be able to do it all though

This is kind of an old post, i was inspired by the ASP, detonics 45 and other chopped down guns. Also! Looking for a 48 mos slide/recoil spring jf anyone has one theyre looking to sell/trade for :)

Hard to find AN-M2 kits, so why not do it with a 1919. I will be putting the build up on my YouTube channel.