Alright, so long story short, I found a Blue Tech TV in the trash. It doesn't have a remote. I plugged it into the wall and the red light turned on, but it doesn't have any hidden physical buttons. I haven't been able to find any remote control app on my phone that supports Blue Tech to turn it on. I'd really like to get it turned on, so I hope you guys can help me out please :)

Hey guys can anyone give me a hand in figuring out what's wrong here. I just replaced my thermal paste and now trying to boot up my laptop again the screen won't turn on. The power is definitely on, the keyboard lighting is there and when I start it, the fans run for a couple seconds then go silent and its just kinda sitting like this, i think its stuck in boot up mode cuz the keyboard lights dont turn off. I disconnected the battery before doing anything internally too but what could be causing this and how could i fix it?

I have an HP Bluetooth keyboard which connects to multiple device recently I changed the batteries since then it is not working properly. It’s connecting to all devices but, command is always press so if I’m clicking on any action, it’s doing something else. So basically I need to factory reset this keyboard. I tried that battery method draining the battery, but it’s not working for me.

I have been trying to make it so that my Bluetooth headphones will be for the games/music/videos, and my speaker for calls on discord or other applications. I also have a separate microphone.

The problem is, the headphone's audio is getting distorted as soon as I use the discord's microphone, even just for checking, then the audio on my headset never goes back okay unless I restart my PC.

I am using Windows 11, I have disabled all the handsfree drivers. On sound settings, playback tab, I only enabled the speaker and the headphones. On recording tab, only the external mic. On communications tab, I set it to "do nothing". I am running out of options here. Is this even solvable? and if it is, is there a way to switch my communication device and media playback device easily?

Hi. Would you guys know which cable should I use for this external hard drive? I believe it is either micro b or micro usb but I'm not sure. Image for the hard drive can be seen in the link.
https://imgur.com/a/GusKKbK

As the question says, I've been trying to fix this for some time and I can't seem to figure out why. Whatever the game, it always says DLSS with or without Frame Generation on. I use the full FPS overlay too. I have Gsync On (Fullscreen Only), with Vertical Sync On in Nvidia App. My monitor is 165Hz so I'm capping it to 162. Not relevant I know but I'm giving as much detail as possible. DLSS Override are Preset B, SR Recommended, RR Recommended. DMFG Custom 60fps up to 3x. But even with DMFG Off that doesn't change anything. Latest driver 616.86 but it's been like this for weeks at least. Is anyone able to have the overlay show DLSS/FG on command? Like it's gonna say DLSS, enable FG and it shows FG, then disable FG and it shows DLSS again?

Thank you for anyone able to help.

I'm having an issue with my Windows laptop connecting to my phone's mobile hotspot.

The laptop connects to the hotspot normally, but after about 1 minute, it disconnects. When I try to reconnect, Windows asks me to enter the Wi-Fi password again and shows this message:

"Some information changed since the last time you connected. We need additional information to complete the connection."

So i listen to podcasts frequently when i sleep, and sometimes i dont put on the sleep timer, letting videos autoplay. Everything was normal for literal years, however, recently ive been waking up to videos titled "heal yourself - 3 hour relaxing music with rain" or something like that, and i keep hitting not interested, and it keeps PLAYING THEM. Don't know if this is the place to ask, but htf do i fix this?

Soooooo my mouse keeps disconnecting and reconnecting constantly…..it’s not the mouse, I bought a brand new one. It’s not the USB port, I’ve tried plugging in the back on the main control panel thing (sorry I’m not completely verbal and knowledgeable on computers) as well as multiple other ports. I’ve also tried uninstalling the mouse driver thing and reinstalling. Still no change.

The PC is a Dell Alienware (not sure year, it was given to me). Feel free to ask any necessary questions, I will try to answer but please be patient. I am not often on Reddit and also work majority of the day. Thank you guys in advance!! ❤️

I've got the AI Overview setting turned off, yet somehow it still shows up on basically every search I make.

At this point I'm starting to wonder if that setting actually does anything. I don't want an AI summary at the top of my results - I just want the normal search results back. If Google isn't going to let us properly disable it, what are people switching to instead?

What search engine/browser are you using that doesn't constantly shove AI results in your face?

I just bought an old Mac Pro 6,1 and wiped it clean with a fresh install of MacOS Mojave. I then performed a Migration from an old Time Machine backup that I had and things started to get wonky. I think I may have narrowed it down to the fact that my User doesn't have permission to the main root of the drive.

The only listed user/group that has permission to the drive are:

1. system - read/write
2. wheel - read only
3. everyone - read only

Screenshot of folder permissions

I thought 'system' might be the same as 'admin,' but that doesn't seem to be the case. Is there a backend way to grant permission to 'admin' or better yet to my main user account? Thank you!

hey guys, my laptop - a corporate hand-me-down dell latitude 7390 - has a new battery and ssd from a different laptop. During normal use it randomly crashes showing something like “a system encountered an error and needs to restart,” then restarts into a “no bootable devices found.” To top it all when I turn it off and then on it works as nothing happened.

Is there anything that can be done? I really need it for my biology classes 😭🙏

usb thethring not working without turning on usb debugging, i want to trun on usb thethring without truning on usb debugging

Hello all, I've recently started having a couple issues with my Logitech g502 mouse starting today. There are a couple common symptoms:

•I can move the cursor around, but I cannot use any of the buttons on the mouse. When it stops working it looks like it deselects all of my tabs I have open. Hovering over the icons in the top right of the tab will occasionally have ui effects but I can never actually click on them

•if I try to use my scroll wheel it automatically goes into "auto scroll" (the thing that happens when you press your scroll wheel and you just move the cursor to get it to scroll instead of physically scrolling on the scroll wheel). It sometimes comes out of this mode when you continue scrolling, sometimes it does not

I've found the symptoms most commonly occur when I try to use "mouse-like" shortcuts with my keyboard (alt+tab, anything with the windows key, etc.). It also happens if I try to use my scroll wheel.

So far pressing ctrl+alt+del has been a temporary solution, but the symptoms come back every time I do one of the mentioned catalysts.

I have tried updating the mouse driver as well as removing the driver and restarting the computer. I noticed that when the symptoms are occuring my mouse does not show up in the "manage devices" Win+x menu so to try and reset my drivers I had to do it after ctrl+alt+del, which made it reappear. This still did not resolve the issue though. I also tried uninstalling and reinstalling GHub to see if that was the issue because it originally wasn't launching but now it launches just fine yet the issue persists

Any help you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated. I don't own another mouse to test if the mouse itself is just broken, but if it does seem to be the mouse then I guess I'll just have to save up for a new mouse. Thank you!

I keep getting a notification popping up randomly saying foreign material or moisture has been found in the charging port (on a dry day).

Does anyone have any advice on how to clear out the port and keep it clean?

Samsung Galaxy A57 5G

Android version 16

The error NET::ERR_CERT_AUTHORITY_INVALID is popping up on every device on the network. Pretty certain the issue has to do with the router but when I looked it up it was just showing things fir individual devices having the issue not the router or modem.

Does anyone know how to solve this? Please and thank you for any and all help.

My touchpad started acting very choppy out of nowhere (stuttering, freezing, etc.) and after I had restarted to hopefully fix it, it stopped working altogether. Both the Touchpad device and the 12c HID device are greyed out in device manager but with no warning sign on them. Both of them display a Code 45. I have since tried uninstalling both drivers, resetting the laptop while keeping my files, and downloading the Chipset from the website to no avail. When I uninstalled both drivers, they only reappeared after I reset the laptop (restarting didn't help). I would appreciate any insight, thanks.

So about a month ago one of my Xbox controllers stopped working with my pc. Kept getting an error that said “the last usb device you connected to this computer malfunctioned and windows does not recognize it.” So I plug in a new one and it works for a while then today it kept connecting via USB the imminently disconnected and this happened like 9 times so I tried ANOTHER controller and now it won’t even turn on. I’m not a tech guy I have no idea what is happening or what to do. Also I used different cables and usb ports too and nothing will work. Please help!!

I have been using my iPhone 12 Pro Max (bought refurbished from 3rd party vendor) and used it fine for 6 months no problems at all. Then one day it froze up my screen as I was playing Standoff 2 (mobile fps game) and completely rebooted my phone.

At first I thought it was a minor oopsies and only happened once, so i kept using it like normal, and then Face ID does NOT want to recognize my face, i tried over and over but to no avail, so i decided to reboot manually and it worked fine after the reboot.
However this would only gets more annoying when it happened again, the alarm i set for the morning woke me up, but as i went to hit the dismiss button, the screen froze and it reboots all by itself.

In short, my phone kept crashing like so, Face ID malfunctions (sometimes it went back to work after some time, weird I know.) and I found a buttload of panic-full logs in the analytics data. It happened for about 3-6 times per day.

I don't know how to proceed to fix this, and I'm afraid Apple can't properly help with this issue, I just want a diagnosis and how to proceed from there, since I'm lowkey coping atm. Thank you for your time, i sincerely appreciate any response.

Good day everyone i just want to ask to how to fix my screen, Recently i don't use my laptop but when i use it, the display or the screen was stuttering. Even i change it from 144hz display to 60hz it still doing it things and i update the driver multiple times. Please help me

Link to my original post on r/applehelp

I am using Apple Devices to create various backups for various phone. I need it to be on an external drive because that’s the only spare drive I have laying around that I can use for anything large like this. I also need to create multiple backups for multiple phones and my C drive doesn’t have the space to hold all the backups. Through the various suggestion one of them was to make a symbolic link to my external hard drive in order to access the backups. I would like some help with this as I can't seem to find what I'm looking for online and I am on a time crunch to get these backups made. The path to my backups is C:\Users\username\Apple\MobileSync\Backup and the only backup I have so far is encrypted in a folder called 00008110-000C5D2E02C1401E.

I can barely describe the issue it feels so niche. But sometimes my computer audio will cut out completely. Not only that, videos and other graphics will suddenly run in slow motion. Youtube and other streaming sites, games, etc.

Just to be clear, everything else seems to be fine, no stuttering and memory usage is normal on task manager. Windows itself is running smoothly. The browser is smooth. Websites load quickly. Applications open fast. It's literally just the videos themselves are playing back as though they're in slow motion. Game graphics are moving at half time as well.

So I can’t get into my computer. Every time I launch to the windows screen, where it shows the time and date, I can’t type or click anything to sign in. I think my usb drives are not connecting or something. But they work in the bios setting and in the bit locker recovery. I have tried just about everything and nothing works. Please help me I need to get into my computer.

I bought this Aqua mouse off eBay a week ago, it arrived today, & it seems to work fine minus the fact that, instead of moving the cursor around like normal, it slams it into the bottom left corner. My computer is an Intel NUC9i7QNX, & the mouse is Aqua model no D168, Coca-Cola branded with a little plastic coke bottle floating around inside.

My friend's Dell Wyse 5470 running Windows 11 suddenly stopped booting after I enabled Windows Security > Core Isolation > Memory Integrity. It crashed during the restart, and since then Windows either hangs indefinitely or gave 0xc000021A once.

I've tried disabling HVCI/hypervisor through the offline registry/BCD, SFC, and DISM, but Windows still won't boot.

The concerning part is Dell's pre-boot diagnostics repeatedly report:

2000-0145 — Hard Drive 0 self-test did not complete

I also ran chkdsk C: from a Windows 11 USB and it found NTFS corruption and ended with:

Errors found. CHKDSK cannot continue in read-only mode.

The SSD is still detected normally, and I can access C:\Windows from the USB.

There aren't many important files, so I'm considering just backing them up and doing a clean Windows installation.

Does this sound like an SSD that's failing, or could this simply be filesystem corruption from the crash? Should I test the SSD further before reinstalling Windows?