Hey everyone,

If you’ve used Linux for gaming, you’ve probably come across MangoHud—one of the best, most customizable performance overlays out there. Coming back to Windows, I really missed having a simple, clean alternative without extra bloat, so I created ManWin.

It’s a lightweight system stats overlay designed for Windows that gives you real-time telemetry while gaming, keeping things minimal and clean.

Features:

Real-time monitoring for FPS, CPU/GPU usage, temperatures, and RAM.

Lightweight with minimal resource overhead.

MangoHud-inspired visual style.

I've made the initial builds available on GitHub for anyone who wants to try it out.

👉 GitHub / Releases: https://github.com/StrelokDev2010/ManWin

I’d love to hear your feedback!

So I was just finishing off my build today and discovered that the PSU has 2*12vHPW cables, 2 CPU 8 pin cables and a 6+2 cable. With the B850 Tomahawk MB and my 9070 I need (at least) 3*8 pin cables. Not only is the 6+2 short, I can't for the life of me get the 6+2 cable end into either the GPU or the CPU slot on the motherboard.

I'd love an idea of options. An extension is the cheapest and most logical choice?

Hi! I have been a console gamer all my life, an I am looking to get a gaming pc for the first time. I needed to some help as I was looking online I was very overwhelmed by the options on Walmart, Amazon, and all the other online markets. The price range I have currently is between $1500-2000. I am looking for a Pc that can comfortably play multi-player games like overwatch, valorant, and cs without any hiccups. I'm not sure where to start looking. I would have gone to a microcenter like a lot of posts I see suggest but sadly the closest one is 300 miles away. So I am looking online for the best pre builts in my range. I would really appreciate any help I can get thank you!

Hello, some time ago my monitor suddenly got really pixelated, like i can see the individual pixels. It wasnt like this before, it was smooth as it should be. I checked in 3 different places to check if my resolution didnt change, which it didnt, its still at the normal 3440x1440. I also tried to unplug it and replug it and even change the cable, no dice. Do you guys have any ideas?

Preferably steam and verified safe. I want to try my pc on grey/ black and white.

how can I do it. and also have a button to turn it off?

I found a Corsair HX1500i power supply that is refurbished.

It is “CERTIFIED REFURBISHED” and also has a Refurbished Identification Number.

What do you think about this power supply? Is it safe to use, and would you recommend buying a refurbished unit like this?

I currently have a MacBook Pro M5 Pro and much of the games I want to play aren’t properly optimized or supported.

Having a handheld would be easier and more portable, which one do you guys recommend to use alongside Apollo/Moonlight for my Mac to be the display? I preferably want around 1440p and 120fps so if any upscaling or frame gen needs to be taken in account I’ll understand.

Im putting together this PC mostly as a fun project. Everything is used and I’m mainly interested in performance compatibility and how well the parts work together rather than gaming.

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X — 30€
• GPU: ASUS STRIX GTX 980 4GB — 40€
• Motherboard: ASRock B450M Pro4 — 40€
• RAM: Crucial CT8G4DFRA266 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-2666 CL19 — had these left over
• SSD: TEAMGROUP CX2 512GB — had this left over
• Case: Random case, still looking for one — maybe ~40€
• PSU: MSI MAG A650BN 650W — 56€

So Im at around 166€ for the parts I actually paid for, excluding the leftover RAM and SSD, and probably around 206€ including the case.

I know it’s old hardware but thats kind of the point.

What do you guys think? Is there anything you would change for better overall performance or compatibility without turning this into an expensive gaming build?

I'm mostly interesting in open world games and mmorpgs. I'll be playing on 1440p at max settings, and I know the 5080 will do most of the heavy lifting. I'm only interested in the x3d if it really adds a lot. I don't know how common "1% lows" will be on the 5080 and I know that's one of the most important qualities of the x3d.

I appreciate any advice!

As we all know, a lot of people hate AI but still use it, and I feel like the same thing is happening with DLSS 5.

I’ve watched some videos of DLSS 5 recently, and honestly, some of them look stunning. I even watched comparisons using some of my favorite games, like Elden Ring, Dark Souls 3, Bloodborne, and Crimson Desert, and they looked amazing.

At the same time, I keep seeing people hating on DLSS 5, and honestly, I’m a little confused.

I’m not saying DLSS 5 is perfect or that everyone should love it. There are definitely things to criticize. But it’s still a new technology, and I think new technology needs time to grow and improve.

After watching a lot of these videos, I’m starting to think DLSS 5 might not be as bad as people initially thought.

What do you think? Are you still against DLSS 5.

Hello, so these days i work with two instances of blender, autocad, with the usual stuff like spotify and discord thats open anyway. But the PC randomly started to freeze like crazy yesterday, itll take a couple seconds for what i do to register, and it happened again today. Same as before completely out of the blue. Maybe worth noting that before this started happening yesterday, when i got back from lunch some stuff i had open seems to have crashed. Both blender versions and discord and spotify from what i remember, autocad was still up.

This is a somewhat decent PC, specs attached below, and the projects i have open are hardly anything complex. Ive run far worse stuff with twinmotion and UE5 without any issues. No spikes on anything on task manager when the freezing is happening and temps are normal. Only a full restart seems to make it go away.

Only I use this PC and just for work, so I dont think ive done anything that can get malware in either, defender also says its good, but who knows. Let me know if theres any test i should run or if you need more info on something.

Specs

Windows 11 Pro 25H2

1TB Samsung 990 PRO (ts is partitioned into roughly 300/600 for C and D respectively, most software and files have been on D forever if that matters)

RTX 5070 (huh it was on 591.44 studio drivers but seems to have updated to game ready 610.88 on july 28th even though i did nothing)

R7 7800X3D

32 (16x2) gigs of DDR5 at 6000MTs

750W PSU (not sure what exactly)

So I'm in the middle of building my first pc ever (zero tech knowledge whatsoever) and yesterday I bench tested everything and it worked, thank god. But then I had to take the GPU back out to make it a bit easier to install the mobo into the case. But jesus christ, it's so hard to reach that damn little release latch when the whole GPU is basically covering it. Took me so long! Had to take one of my fans off the cpu cooler to be able to reach it better and it was still a massive pain.

Anyone else have similar issues with this? Is there an easier way to reach it or do other people also think it's kind of a design flaw?

I locked my pc to go take a piss n came back to this (been around 30 mins)

This is an issue on my HP Omen Max. So not really a desktop issue but you guys probably know more about software than those in the other subreddits. Especially for games.

This is on a Laptop 5080 and an intel Ultra 9 275HX. And I am apparently getting 150 Fps on a 1600p screen with frame gen on I think 2x.

Same troubleshooting on a desktop should apply on this minus hardware stuff. Thanks in advance.

Wrong recording. My bad. I was supposed to show one where the screen tearing and artifacts were more visible.

I'm a newbie, in fact this is my first build, I haven't ordered anything yet (cause I'm broke) but one issue with the list is I don't know what graphics card to get, I'm looking for something mid-range, I was originally going to get an intel arc b580 but changed my mind, so I've come here for more ideas of what card I should get

Using 5090 with sept 3 driver installed

But still don’t see the dlss neural rendering

Any help?

Was looking for a 9070 or 9070xt and came upon this on Amazon for the gigabyte 9070 gre for $549. I'm a constant Amazon user and even though it has 5 stars its only rated by 7 people so it's kinda sketchy what do you guys think?

S$1,560:

CPU: Ryzen 5 7500F

GPU: PowerColor RX 9060 XT Reaper 16GB

RAM: 16GB DDR5 6000MHz, single stick (16x1)

SSD: 1TB Kingbank KP260 Plus Gen4

Mobo: Gigabyte B850M C WiFi7

PSU: 650W Gigabyte P650G 80+ Gold, ATX3.1, PCIe5.1

Cooler: AMD Wraith Stealth (stock)

Warranty: 3yr parts, 1st year onsite pickup & return

[FIXED] I ran sfc /scannow LOL]

I’m having a weird problem with my USB WiFi dongle and I’m hoping someone can help me fix it.
I’m using a TOTOLINK USB WiFi dongle. It was working normally before, but now Windows detects it as a “Realtek Driver Storage USB Device” under DVD/CD-ROM drives instead of detecting it as a WiFi adapter.
Device Manager shows:
Realtek Driver Storage USB Device
Device type: DVD/CD-ROM drives

Code 39 – Windows cannot load the device driver
The weird part is that the dongle itself works perfectly on another laptop. So I’m pretty sure the dongle isn’t faulty. The problem only happens on my PC.

Things I’ve tried
Unplugging and reconnecting the dongle
Trying different USB ports
Using the rear motherboard USB ports
Restarting the PC
Uninstalling Realtek Driver Storage USB Device from Device Manager
Restarting and letting Windows detect it again
Checking Device Manager for the WiFi adapter
Trying to get Windows to reinstall the device
The dongle still appears as the Realtek storage/CD-ROM device
Tested the exact same dongle on another laptop → works normally
I’m thinking something might be wrong with my Windows USB/Realtek driver configuration on this PC.

My PC specs
CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F
Motherboard: ASRock B660M-HDV
GPU: Palit RTX 3060
RAM: 16GB DDR4
PSU: Cooler Master 800W 80+ Gold ATX 3.1, non-modular
OS: Windows 11
WiFi: TOTOLINK USB WiFi dongle A650UA

Is there a way to completely reset the USB/driver configuration for this device or force Windows to properly detect the WiFi adapter instead of only the virtual CD-ROM/storage device?
I’d rather fix this than reinstall Windows or buy another dongle if possible.
I can also provide the Hardware IDs (VID/PID) from Device Manager if that helps.

My rx 580 passed away yesterday, and with not a lot of money, being outside the US only option is this card which is 350 lari( 130 usd). Just wanna know if the scores are good.

My rx 580 had fan problems, used to go up to like 85 to 90 ish degrees when gaming and it made a rattling sound.

Just wanna play my story games and e sports.

Sorry for bad furmark pic, the seller has it so.

Edit: dont reccomend other gpus such as 2060, 1080, 6600, 6600xt 5700xt etc as they are almost double the price.

I recently switched to Windows 11 and ran into this problem: When I turn on the PC, the motherboard logo appears and I can access the BIOS, but as soon as Windows starts to load, the screen goes to "No Signal." My PC specs: RTX 3080, R5 5600, 32GB DDR4, Samsung 980 1TB. Monitor: A generic Chinese "Arzopa 27" 2K 180Hz IPS" model—though I should note that this issue also occurred with my old AOC i2252vwh.

RX 7600XT 9 5900XT

I haven't even overclocked it in a while for stability reasons. The last time it happened it was because of outdated drivers. Surely updating the drivers should resolve this, right????

I have a GTX 1660 Ti, and whenever I look at grass/foliage from a distance on high graphics settings, I see these black dots/grid patterns. However, as soon as I walk closer to it, it disappears completely.

Attached are the images. Is this a hardware issue or just how the game engine renders LODs/dithering? Thanks!