Hello! My front tires, sailun atrezzo zsr 2, are completely worn out after not even 2 months since fitting them. Driven about 3700miles / 6000km on them.

Real wheels are in very good condition.

The pictures are of both front tires, and they are both completely worn out. One picture of the "front" of the right tire, and the other picture of the "back" of the left tire.

I took delivery of this set of tyres myself on July 11th. Drove them myself to my closest mechanic, stood next to the guy fitting them all the time, then mounted them directly on the car myself also. They are mounted on some pretty rare (here in Sweden) AMG rims, so they have not been stolen and replaced with some other old tyres. (As mentioned as a possibility in the comments).

I mainly drive on cruise control at 50 mph / 80kmh, for 1 hour per day. I've felt the car skip in the front now for some weeks when turning at slow speeds, such as parking, going up driveways etc. And of course on water it is sensitive. I will change them out asap, but my question is, how can they get worn this quickly?

Mercedes C220 2013, rear wheel drive. 1 previous owner, driven ~3400miles / 5500km in total.

Did the most stupid shit ever. Was trying to change to oil on my 2009 civic and realized midway that I bought the wrong filter. All the shops were closed cuz of labour day. Cuz I drained the oil so I thought I’ll get it tomorrow. I don’t how tf but the car got started by the remote starter and by the time I realized it already ran for 4-5 mins. I can’t confirm if I heard any noises because I saw it pretty far away from my apartment. Bruh I feel so stupid for this shit, had this car for 3 years😭. Need help on what to do.

Honestly I didn’t hit any pothole. It was probably some asshole who slashed my tire… brand new, got it 2 weeks ago 🥲. I’m wondering how urgent is this?
UltraContact 235/45R19 99V XL, BYD Seal Premium

edit

all right guys it might have been a curb… I’m having memory flashes hahah.
Anyway, I’m mostly looking for guidance on what to do/how quickly should I address this. I’m assuming this tire doesn’t have repair?

Hi I tried replacing my battery and got it out and put the new one in, connected the positive and went to the negative but I couldn’t get it on because my new battery has a slightly wider negative, I heard you can expand the terminal, but it is so old and rusty that it won’t expand at all, the battery was last changed 4 years ago before I owned the car. Should I buy a new negative clamp?

The car is a 2013 Honda civic es diesel

2024 Subaru Crosstrek just had a rear brake job done at an AAA location 3 weeks ago. I usually do them myself but my girlfriend‘s mom was using the car and paid/OKed it during an oil change. The car wasn't really driven much around town since, but my girlfriend just drove it to her family’s house 9 hours away and about 7 hours in on the highway got a grinding sound. She took it to a shop and the found there was a missing caliper bolt and cosmetic damage to the inside of the wheel.

I understand how dangerous this is and new mechanic put in a temp bolt to get her home. I intend to give the shop hell, but I’m reluctant to let them touch the car even again. Do I give them a chance to fix for free and reimburse us for the $90 inspection and quick fix and maybe wheel too?

I assume getting this sorted is probably going to be a pain trying to get the oem bolt.

The other 3 struts are all seated fine and the front two are identical. This is the front passenger side. Driver side is seated just fine. I had a shop assemble these for me. I cannot figure out why this is happening. Driver and passenger side are put together the same as far as I can tell.

My CRV is AWD and automatic trans. These are KYB struts with old man emu lift springs. Again, only the front passenger side is doing this the other 3 are happily in place and looking good. Please help. I'm losing my mind over this. It's fully seated into the fork same as the driver's side.

I drove it up and down my driveway to see if it would settle out of desperation and it just made horrible noises as expected. The other 3 struts were silent and perfect.

Edit: Engine info is in-line 4 cylinder 2.0L. It's a Honda b20.

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Bmw 316 1999 1.9l

The car stalls while driving at speeds above 50 km/h. It shuts off when you press the clutch or put the car into neutral. It doesn’t happen all the time; sometimes the car barely keeps running, but the RPM drops significantly.

Anyone who knows more about this problem let me know?

2009 Honda CRV

1 year ago I put a different set of rims on my car my brother had at home with brand new tires on them instead of changing the tires on my stock rims because he was getting rid of the rims anyways.
Afterwards it felt like something wasn’t quite right either an alignment or balancing issue, so I took the car into a commercial tire shop to get that looked at and pre paid for the service on Groupon. Turned out my brother had forgotten to tighten a few lugs on a rim which is why it felt so off (scary mistake, I know). Mechanic said that was the issue and I was good to go.
Recently I notice one of my tires is quite worn down so I take it into a (different) commercial tire shop and they say all 4 of my tires are wearing down really bad in weird spots due to a bad alignment issue.
To me this kind of sounds like the previous shop didn’t bother looking at the alignment after they caught the lug nut issue. Is it normal for an alignment to get really off in just a year? Thoughts?
(I mention the Groupon thing here because originally I was frustrated I wouldn’t get refunded for that)

Ok so I Have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi that is leaking Coolant somewhere but there are no puddles on the ground it’s usually in this area that’s circled I had a water pump put on about a month ago and it’s been running fine until now does anyone know what could be the problem my Trucks not over heating

I’m currently fitting my fuel pressure regulator but have ran into a roadblock.

The 1/8” NPT fitting is not completely threading into the FPR. I am aware that it is a tapered thread, but am inquiring to see if this is normal?

Car is 2023 mitsubishi triton l200 at 20k kms

2019 Toyota 4Runner. 125000 miles. I’m the original owner. Took it to the dealer for transmission service and brake fluid flush. There was a lot of fluid under and around the transmission which I kind of expected. There was what appeared to be brake fluid in and around the master cylinder. The next weekend I replaced the front pads and rotors and rear pads. There is no visible sign of any work being done at the calipers. Is it normal for a shop to say they “removed all old brake fluid “ but clearly didn’t open the bleeders?? Should I ask for my money back or is this typical? Thanks!!

Doing research of the life of a diesel mechanic. looking to get out of electrical.

How is what you work on different to automotive?

What's a difference that surprised you?

What does your job look like in 5-10 years?

do you diesel, HD, or Agro techs deal with the same 'warranty work' that dealership auto techs deal with?

Are there any schooling requirements for your field?

Whats a niche of special special equipment i should look into?

Anything that i should know headed into this field?

Thank all you techs in the field!

2012 Subaru forester. Was on my way to work this morning when smoke started to funnel out of my car. Luckily I had just made it to my job and when I checked it was just a crack in the upper radiator hose that spewed some coolant over the block. I have around a 10 mile drive home and can get a new hose delivered relatively soon. Is there a quick patch job I can do to make it home? Would duct tape or heat resistant aluminum tape work? I have both available.

Scraped up on a curb whilst parking, is this damage significant? Thoughts please.

P.S I am an aware I am missing a valve cap and am looking for a replacement cap anyway, will take to a garage today.

Car is a 2013 Mercedes cl500. C216 with m278 engine. 4.7L biturbo.

I can only include one video so here you can hear the rattle on startup. The rattle when I rev and the revs go down, are quieter but more of a high pitched tink (compared to the startup rattle) if you know what I mean.

I don’t think it’s turbo wastegate issue and I thought it might be something loose but the noises both only occur before warming the engine up. I took it to mechanic and they said it’s okay. Just want a second, third, etc opinion. 😅. Many thanks in advance!

Im replacing the valve seals on my 2006 subaru forester X (N/A). Why are there 3 exhaust valve guides that are lower than the rest. And can i fix at home, or send to shop? Is that normal? Its only 3 guides on the passenger exhaust side. Car also has over 380,000 miles on factory drivetrain😬

So I’ve got myself a 1999 five speed manual F23A4 Honda Accord. Aside from my lack of manual knowledge, it drives fine rides fine and feels great. However, I’ve been noticing some issues with the engine holding RPM. Especially after coming back from a drive even if it’s just a short one, once my car is sat still in the driveway. I’ll notice the RPM drop from a normal amount to 500 to 250 (in the video above when I would let off the gas and it would dip it was hitting about 200)

My ideas are potential vacuum leak, coil, pack issues, and I know for a fact, some of my lost power is due to my air filter being almost black. it should be red.

But I’m not sure what it is or how to diagnose it as I don’t have a whole lot of knowledge. Anything would be appreciated.

(2020 tacoma SR V6 4x4) I went to check my rear shoes becasue im at about 80k on my tacoma. This is what i found. Ive never had any fluid leaking out of them and my break resivour is still full and unchanged. Rear diff breather is freely moving and seens to be not clogged. Im wondering if the dealer just greased the hell out of them and im just now finding it? Ive owned the truck for three years.

Hi guys, Citroen c3, made in 2013.

1.4. hdi diesel.

This buzzing sound is coming from the front right part of the car, right beside headlight (seen from the drivers side). Unfortunately I only have this video I received myself. Does someone know what is causing this?

Thanks in advance!

Bought this thing maybe a month or two ago when my truck finally ate it, wasn't stoked on it but it was the only thing around that wasn't rolling scrap for 10k (rolling scrap for 1k!)
Engines making a mysterious ticking noise and honestly I'm tired boss.
What's it sound like to ya'll? Worth throwing more parts at?

I was thinking of buying one but worried it may damage the fuel injectors or the rubber o-rings.

Got this code on my Jeep (2014 Jeep Compass Sport FWD 2.0) Mine and googles’ guesses are a crappy O2 Sensor. Any chance it could be something else or more than just a bad O2 sensor?

2015 jetta tsi 1.8L with a standard transmission. Check engine wrench is flashing with an automatic transmission malfunction indicator on the screen..

From what I've researched, the module is the same for both standard and automatic, and sometimes the computer gets a glitch and displays a code from the other style of transmission. What does this mean for the sensors and driveability of the vehicle?

I have noticed an increase in road noise at high speeds after the shop changed the serpentine belt and rotated my tires.

After I took it in last week to diagnose the issue, the same mechanic shop said that I have tire cupping and that my struts and shocks were shot. Quoted me 3k for new tires and new struts and shocks (egregious quote, gonna do them myself)

The car doesn’t make the typical noise when the struts are worn, and the tires seemingly look ok?

What do y’all think?