Got this code on my Jeep (2014 Jeep Compass Sport FWD 2.0) Mine and googles’ guesses are a crappy O2 Sensor. Any chance it could be something else or more than just a bad O2 sensor?

2015 jetta tsi 1.8L with a standard transmission. Check engine wrench is flashing with an automatic transmission malfunction indicator on the screen..

From what I've researched, the module is the same for both standard and automatic, and sometimes the computer gets a glitch and displays a code from the other style of transmission. What does this mean for the sensors and driveability of the vehicle?

I have noticed an increase in road noise at high speeds after the shop changed the serpentine belt and rotated my tires.

After I took it in last week to diagnose the issue, the same mechanic shop said that I have tire cupping and that my struts and shocks were shot. Quoted me 3k for new tires and new struts and shocks (egregious quote, gonna do them myself)

The car doesn’t make the typical noise when the struts are worn, and the tires seemingly look ok?

What do y’all think?

Doing research of the life of a diesel mechanic. looking to get out of electrical.

How is what you work on different to automotive?

What's a difference that surprised you?

What does your job look like in 5-10 years?

do you diesel, HD, or Agro techs deal with the same 'warranty work' that dealership auto techs deal with?

Are there any schooling requirements for your field?

Whats a niche of special special equipment i should look into?

Anything that i should know headed into this field?

Thank all you techs in the field!

Hello, I'm getting a p0420 code that will stay off for a while when I clear it and then come back on after a few months. I'm also noticing a bit of oil consumption that I check the dipstick for weekly for. I figure there is no point In replacing or addressing the Cat with the oil burning but what can I do to slow it or hopefully stop it entirely? Heard Valvoline restore and protect works for some. 163k miles and other than this she drives strong and smooth. I tested the pcv valve as well and its working fine.

Thankyou

2012 Subaru forester. Was on my way to work this morning when smoke started to funnel out of my car. Luckily I had just made it to my job and when I checked it was just a crack in the upper radiator hose that spewed some coolant over the block. I have around a 10 mile drive home and can get a new hose delivered relatively soon. Is there a quick patch job I can do to make it home? Would duct tape or heat resistant aluminum tape work? I have both available.

Just got this 2011 Subaru off marketplace. This noise started happening in the dashboard. What is it?

Hello all, more of a general question. Im trying to replace my transmission mount and I have the new part ready to go in. I can get the through bolt connected and one of the mounting nuts in but I the two bolts that attach the mount to the chassis are causing me trouble. One of the bolts will go halfway in and then get unreasonably tight and the other wont catch at all. Is this a generally simple fix? I dont have one of those chaser bolts so id definitely have to call a mobile mechanic. Is that something they would be able to fix? The bolts themselves seem to be in decent condition as far as I can see so im assuming its the socket itself that has something funky going on.

2015 Chevy Equinox 2.4

I’ve been getting a 0011 code for about a month. I’ve replaced the oil, oil filter , air filter, cleaned the solenoid, then replaced the solenoid and finally replaced the connector to the solenoid. What else can I do before I have to take it in to be looked at by a professional?

my phone picked up every single sound I made before the engine making that last sound, so sorry. it’s running like normal but this sound just started and it’s making me nervous. what the heck could it be?

I just got in a used set of nismo s-tune suspension from Japan for nissan 350z.

I was testing the rear dampers by hand. There is good firm resistance when compressing/pushing them down, but unsure if the rebound is good or not.

If i push down on the damper rod with the top of the damper firmly pressed on the ground, the damper rebounds usually with the same force i push it down with, it usually rebounds somewhat quickly though. It usually doesnt rebound to its fully extended position if i push it all the way down. It doesnt seem to rebound much if i push down when its the right way up. Is this good or bad?

starts as soon as it turns on and gets worse with acceleration and it seems to be getting louder everyday i have a 2021 ford ecosport

audio warning for the video

the first half the little bird noise squeak is me free spinning the alternator pulley without the belt on.

the second half is how it's sounding when I idle, same when I drive it and it gets louder as I drive. haven't been driving it since.

Toyota hilux 2011. the alternator was like new when I traded in my last broken one, installed this one early may.

now my engine bay sounds like this. belt is also a few months old. no other pulley is squeaking besides that.

question is, would that noise be the alternator pulley? if so how do I go about fixing it.. any help is appreciated as I would like to get back to work asap and I'm worried with driving it as is.. thanks

2009 Honda CRV

1 year ago I put a different set of rims on my car my brother had at home with brand new tires on them instead of changing the tires on my stock rims because he was getting rid of the rims anyways.
Afterwards it felt like something wasn’t quite right either an alignment or balancing issue, so I took the car into a commercial tire shop to get that looked at and pre paid for the service on Groupon. Turned out my brother had forgotten to tighten a few lugs on a rim which is why it felt so off (scary mistake, I know). Mechanic said that was the issue and I was good to go.
Recently I notice one of my tires is quite worn down so I take it into a (different) commercial tire shop and they say all 4 of my tires are wearing down really bad in weird spots due to a bad alignment issue.
To me this kind of sounds like the previous shop didn’t bother looking at the alignment after they caught the lug nut issue. Is it normal for an alignment to get really off in just a year? Thoughts?
(I mention the Groupon thing here because originally I was frustrated I wouldn’t get refunded for that)

Ok so I Have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi that is leaking Coolant somewhere but there are no puddles on the ground it’s usually in this area that’s circled I had a water pump put on about a month ago and it’s been running fine until now does anyone know what could be the problem my Trucks not over heating

Scraped up on a curb whilst parking, is this damage significant? Thoughts please.

P.S I am an aware I am missing a valve cap and am looking for a replacement cap anyway, will take to a garage today.

2010 4.3 thirsty as hell, changed maf, cleaned throttle body, did some knock sensor hack where you tie the two together for whatever reason that seemed to work for a while but now back to square one. Using a ton of gas, any help/advice appreciated. TIA

I have a 2011 Hyundai with the 1.4 diesel engine and it runs just fine save for the idle;

Specifically after accelerating in gear, if you push the clutch in the idle will sway about a 1000rpm's up and down until it either dies or stabilizes.

If you sit still in neutral and rev the engine it goes back to idle like normal.

This is making city driving interesting.

There are zero error codes and I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting as I'm used to old carbed beaters.

Grateful for any ideas.

Car is a 2013 Mercedes cl500. C216 with m278 engine. 4.7L biturbo.

I can only include one video so here you can hear the rattle on startup. The rattle when I rev and the revs go down, are quieter but more of a high pitched tink (compared to the startup rattle) if you know what I mean.

I don’t think it’s turbo wastegate issue and I thought it might be something loose but the noises both only occur before warming the engine up. I took it to mechanic and they said it’s okay. Just want a second, third, etc opinion. 😅. Many thanks in advance!

Hello everyone,

I have a 2011 VW Jetta, 1.6 TDI, 105 HP, which occasionally goes into limp mode as soon as I turn the ignition on. This happens before the engine is started. If I start the engine, switch it off, and then restart it, the error disappears. I should mention that this fault has never occurred under load or while driving.

The diagnostic tool shows the following fault code:

P023600 - Turbocharger Boost Sensor

At first, the fault appeared only rarely, about once every three months. Recently, however, it has started occurring more and more often, which is why I began looking into it.

From what I have read, when the ignition is switched on, the ECU performs an initialization procedure. It seems that sometimes my sensor reports a pressure value higher than atmospheric pressure during this process. For this reason, I replaced only the sensor, but the fault did not disappear.

I then took the car to a mechanic, and the following work was carried out in several stages:

• EGR and DPF cleaning. The fault remained.
• Turbocharger cleaning. The fault disappeared for about three weeks, but then started occurring again.

So my question is: has anyone else experienced this fault? If so, how did you solve it?

Thanks in advance!

Would would the slightest knocking sound be as I come to a complete stop? Can sometimes hear the knocking when driving too. Brakes are fine, had castor rods done last week. Was told a while ago I need engine mounts could that be it or something else? Car drives fine no vibrations or anything. When they told me I needed engine mounts a few months ago it didn't make any noise

I’m currently fitting my fuel pressure regulator but have ran into a roadblock.

The 1/8” NPT fitting is not completely threading into the FPR. I am aware that it is a tapered thread, but am inquiring to see if this is normal?

Seems like it may be oil or atf. Wondering if it may be a rear main leak or can all this be cause by the differential fluid? The shiny areas are what’s covered in some type of oil/liquid. Leaks very slowly. Checked engine oil and seems to be holding ok. Automatic transmission fluid I will be keeping an eye on. Let me know what you guys think.

Bought myself a brand new Noco Genius 5 last weekend to charge the battery in my Duke 390 3rd gen. I'm tempted to buy a portable jumpstarter but the surge in power from one leaves me feeling a bit unease with the sensitve electronics on the bike.,