If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Hello! My front tires, sailun atrezzo zsr 2, are completely worn out after not even 2 months since fitting them. Driven about 3700miles / 6000km on them.

Real wheels are in very good condition.

The pictures are of both front tires, and they are both completely worn out. One picture of the "front" of the right tire, and the other picture of the "back" of the left tire.

I took delivery of this set of tyres myself on July 11th. Drove them myself to my closest mechanic, stood next to the guy fitting them all the time, then mounted them directly on the car myself also. They are mounted on some pretty rare (here in Sweden) AMG rims, so they have not been stolen and replaced with some other old tyres. (As mentioned as a possibility in the comments).

I mainly drive on cruise control at 50 mph / 80kmh, for 1 hour per day. I've felt the car skip in the front now for some weeks when turning at slow speeds, such as parking, going up driveways etc. And of course on water it is sensitive. I will change them out asap, but my question is, how can they get worn this quickly?

Mercedes C220 2013, rear wheel drive. 1 previous owner, driven ~3400miles / 5500km in total.

2012 Subaru forester. Was on my way to work this morning when smoke started to funnel out of my car. Luckily I had just made it to my job and when I checked it was just a crack in the upper radiator hose that spewed some coolant over the block. I have around a 10 mile drive home and can get a new hose delivered relatively soon. Is there a quick patch job I can do to make it home? Would duct tape or heat resistant aluminum tape work? I have both available.

2009 Honda CRV

1 year ago I put a different set of rims on my car my brother had at home with brand new tires on them instead of changing the tires on my stock rims because he was getting rid of the rims anyways.
Afterwards it felt like something wasn’t quite right either an alignment or balancing issue, so I took the car into a commercial tire shop to get that looked at and pre paid for the service on Groupon. Turned out my brother had forgotten to tighten a few lugs on a rim which is why it felt so off (scary mistake, I know). Mechanic said that was the issue and I was good to go.
Recently I notice one of my tires is quite worn down so I take it into a (different) commercial tire shop and they say all 4 of my tires are wearing down really bad in weird spots due to a bad alignment issue.
To me this kind of sounds like the previous shop didn’t bother looking at the alignment after they caught the lug nut issue. Is it normal for an alignment to get really off in just a year? Thoughts?
(I mention the Groupon thing here because originally I was frustrated I wouldn’t get refunded for that)

Ok so I Have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi that is leaking Coolant somewhere but there are no puddles on the ground it’s usually in this area that’s circled I had a water pump put on about a month ago and it’s been running fine until now does anyone know what could be the problem my Trucks not over heating

Doing research of the life of a diesel mechanic. looking to get out of electrical.

How is what you work on different to automotive?

What's a difference that surprised you?

What does your job look like in 5-10 years?

do you diesel, HD, or Agro techs deal with the same 'warranty work' that dealership auto techs deal with?

Are there any schooling requirements for your field?

Whats a niche of special special equipment i should look into?

Anything that i should know headed into this field?

Thank all you techs in the field!

Did the most stupid shit ever. Was trying to change to oil on my 2009 civic and realized midway that I bought the wrong filter. All the shops were closed cuz of labour day. Cuz I drained the oil so I thought I’ll get it tomorrow. I don’t how tf but the car got started by the remote starter and by the time I realized it already ran for 4-5 mins. I can’t confirm if I heard any noises because I saw it pretty far away from my apartment. Bruh I feel so stupid for this shit, had this car for 3 years😭. Need help on what to do.

99’ GMC sierra 1500

Scraped up on a curb whilst parking, is this damage significant? Thoughts please.

P.S I am an aware I am missing a valve cap and am looking for a replacement cap anyway, will take to a garage today.

I have noticed an increase in road noise at high speeds after the shop changed the serpentine belt and rotated my tires.

After I took it in last week to diagnose the issue, the same mechanic shop said that I have tire cupping and that my struts and shocks were shot. Quoted me 3k for new tires and new struts and shocks (egregious quote, gonna do them myself)

The car doesn’t make the typical noise when the struts are worn, and the tires seemingly look ok?

What do y’all think?

Hello, I'm getting a p0420 code that will stay off for a while when I clear it and then come back on after a few months. I'm also noticing a bit of oil consumption that I check the dipstick for weekly for. I figure there is no point In replacing or addressing the Cat with the oil burning but what can I do to slow it or hopefully stop it entirely? Heard Valvoline restore and protect works for some. 163k miles and other than this she drives strong and smooth. I tested the pcv valve as well and its working fine.

Thankyou

Just got this 2011 Subaru off marketplace. This noise started happening in the dashboard. What is it?

Hello all, more of a general question. Im trying to replace my transmission mount and I have the new part ready to go in. I can get the through bolt connected and one of the mounting nuts in but I the two bolts that attach the mount to the chassis are causing me trouble. One of the bolts will go halfway in and then get unreasonably tight and the other wont catch at all. Is this a generally simple fix? I dont have one of those chaser bolts so id definitely have to call a mobile mechanic. Is that something they would be able to fix? The bolts themselves seem to be in decent condition as far as I can see so im assuming its the socket itself that has something funky going on.

2015 Chevy Equinox 2.4

I’ve been getting a 0011 code for about a month. I’ve replaced the oil, oil filter , air filter, cleaned the solenoid, then replaced the solenoid and finally replaced the connector to the solenoid. What else can I do before I have to take it in to be looked at by a professional?

my phone picked up every single sound I made before the engine making that last sound, so sorry. it’s running like normal but this sound just started and it’s making me nervous. what the heck could it be?

I’m currently fitting my fuel pressure regulator but have ran into a roadblock.

The 1/8” NPT fitting is not completely threading into the FPR. I am aware that it is a tapered thread, but am inquiring to see if this is normal?

I just got in a used set of nismo s-tune suspension from Japan for nissan 350z.

I was testing the rear dampers by hand. There is good firm resistance when compressing/pushing them down, but unsure if the rebound is good or not.

If i push down on the damper rod with the top of the damper firmly pressed on the ground, the damper rebounds usually with the same force i push it down with, it usually rebounds somewhat quickly though. It usually doesnt rebound to its fully extended position if i push it all the way down. It doesnt seem to rebound much if i push down when its the right way up. Is this good or bad?

Car is a 2013 Mercedes cl500. C216 with m278 engine. 4.7L biturbo.

I can only include one video so here you can hear the rattle on startup. The rattle when I rev and the revs go down, are quieter but more of a high pitched tink (compared to the startup rattle) if you know what I mean.

I don’t think it’s turbo wastegate issue and I thought it might be something loose but the noises both only occur before warming the engine up. I took it to mechanic and they said it’s okay. Just want a second, third, etc opinion. 😅. Many thanks in advance!

starts as soon as it turns on and gets worse with acceleration and it seems to be getting louder everyday i have a 2021 ford ecosport

audio warning for the video

the first half the little bird noise squeak is me free spinning the alternator pulley without the belt on.

the second half is how it's sounding when I idle, same when I drive it and it gets louder as I drive. haven't been driving it since.

Toyota hilux 2011. the alternator was like new when I traded in my last broken one, installed this one early may.

now my engine bay sounds like this. belt is also a few months old. no other pulley is squeaking besides that.

question is, would that noise be the alternator pulley? if so how do I go about fixing it.. any help is appreciated as I would like to get back to work asap and I'm worried with driving it as is.. thanks

2010 4.3 thirsty as hell, changed maf, cleaned throttle body, did some knock sensor hack where you tie the two together for whatever reason that seemed to work for a while but now back to square one. Using a ton of gas, any help/advice appreciated. TIA

I have a 2011 Hyundai with the 1.4 diesel engine and it runs just fine save for the idle;

Specifically after accelerating in gear, if you push the clutch in the idle will sway about a 1000rpm's up and down until it either dies or stabilizes.

If you sit still in neutral and rev the engine it goes back to idle like normal.

This is making city driving interesting.

There are zero error codes and I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting as I'm used to old carbed beaters.

Grateful for any ideas.

Honestly I didn’t hit any pothole. It was probably some asshole who slashed my tire… brand new, got it 2 weeks ago 🥲. I’m wondering how urgent is this?
UltraContact 235/45R19 99V XL, BYD Seal Premium

edit

all right guys it might have been a curb… I’m having memory flashes hahah.
Anyway, I’m mostly looking for guidance on what to do/how quickly should I address this. I’m assuming this tire doesn’t have repair?