My Eureka! El Capitan tent came with loops for a gear hammock/attic but there was not one that came with the tent. The tent is rated at 4+ people but is often used by just my partner and I so it ends up being a bit spacious. I wanted to design a gear hammock that was useful no matter the position of our sleep setup. It has a main hammock with 3 pockets on each short end of the rectangle attached to the bottom sides. That way whatever was in the top portion of the hammock would not crush what was in the pockets. I used a fairly open mesh so it would be easy to see where items were tucked and allow us to pop a solar lantern up there for diffuse light at night. I used cotton edge binding (green) to stabilize the edges of the mesh. Each corner has a loop of the same edge binding to hand the hammock with paracord to the tent loops. The pockets have elastic fold over binding (orange) to gather the pocket edges slightly. I introduced 2 small pleats at the bottom of each pocket to give them a little volume to make it easier to grab items.

I made this gear hammock at the beginning of last camping season. It’s been phenomenal in use, I don’t think I’d change anything about it! It was pretty easy to sew/design too. I really appreciate the separate end pockets so I always have a place for my watch, phone, glasses, keys etc. It doesn’t sag at all with added weight and it also doesn’t hang low enough to get in our way.

Took a factory The Brown Buffalo Standard Issue backpack and decided to completely redesign the front half. I loved the chassis and harness, but the stock front panel didn't match how I would have liked it —so I ripped it open right to the main zipper line and rebuilt everything forward from scratch.

Dubbed this 1-of-1 build the "Wild Buffalo Not-So-Standard Issue."

To maintain a true OEM aesthetic, I matched the original materials, utilizing Cordura (1050D Ballistic) paired with Challenge Sailcloth (EPX400). The goal was to preserve TBB’s clean, rugged silhouette, but with a slight update:

• Full Clamshell Front Compartment: Converted the secondary compartment into a true lay-flat clamshell opening for easier access.
• Top Quick-Access Stash: Added an upper drop pocket sized specifically for sunglasses and a secondary work phone.
• Bottom Front Pocket Overhaul: Re-engineered with an internal zippered pocket paired alongside a quick-stash sleeve.
• Secondary Interior Layout: Maintained the original zippered pocket configuration, adding a dedicated flat pocket along the clamshell flap for extra quick-grab tech and notebooks.

Construction & Lessons Learned:
Super happy with the final outcome—the aesthetic is what I was aming for. However, sewing through the compound stack of heavy-denier Cordura, laminate sailcloth, multiple zipper tapes, and binding was brutal.

If I build a V2, my main adjustments will focus on layer reduction and sewability.

Salut les MYOG!
J’espère que vous allez bien!

Je compte me faire mon premier sac à dos MYOG en dyneema avec une contenance d’environ 18/20L! J’adore le design de ce sac, certains d’entre vous aurait des patterns sympa pour ce genre de modèle?

Par ailleurs je suis en grosse hésitation sur la matière à utiliser pour faire des bretelles légère et confortable!

Merci beaucoup pour votre aide et vos conseils!

N’hésitez pas à partager vos créations!

À bientôt

Ferd

The baffles of my exped duo are failing progressively from the feet toward the head. Only occurring on one side (there are two chambers, one per person) and it's far from the valves.

Is this salvageable? If not, any fun MYOG ideas with the materials? Cut down for a kid / dog with the parts that are intact? Too late for warranty I suspect (8 years). Thanks in advance!

Hey so I’m looking for a material to make a ~ 2x3m tarp which is supposed to cover the hammock similar to the one shown in the picture. I want it to be clear so you can watch the stars/the weather from the hammock even in rain and wind. Dcf is out as it isn’t fully transparent and way too expensive and I worry that something like polycro might be unnecessarily fragile for this usecase (It’s not meant to be for backpacking). Anyone have any experience with this? Cheers

The Mixte always has a weird frame that normal frame bags don’t fit. So solution is to make your own.

I need to work on lining the bags. These first few projects I’m making is to build confidence. Each project I work on new skills.

Super proud of this one, and super excited to get into the world of bags.

Pictured empty and filled.

I have a Mec Slogg HD that has served me well for 5 years now, but there are two things that I'd love to do to improve it.

1) Add a front pocket

2) Add water bottle(Nalgene) pockets on the sides

As far as I can tell, my best bet would be to get some TPU and sew my material (maybe ultrastrech? I have a NUL sundown with that as the front pocket and it's been very durable for me) onto the TPU and then heat weld the TPU onto the body of the Slogg. Has anyone done this? Is there a better method? TIA!

This is the prickly gorse clamshell pouch. Very pleased! Quite an upgrade from the gallon ziplock I was using previously!

I got my own longbow last friday and made a carry bag for it with an adjustable strap - just a long strap that I feed through a couple of D-rings so I can adjust the length.

I got a cheap 60x60x10cm foam target and cut it to 30x30cm pieces, put 2 together so I got a 30x30x20cm piece, made a bag for it with a strap so it's easy to carry around.

A lightweight, packable day pack has long been a missing piece from my pack assortment. I used the Stitchback DL pattern and kept it mostly as designed, short of adding a light hip belt. Wanted to keep it light for this version, but I can envision adding exterior pockets and a roll top for improved water resistance. Final result is 13 oz.

Materials: Ecopak EPX200 (from the RBTR grab bag), 210D gridstop, 200D oxford nylon.

Machine: Kenmore 158.1914

I posted this to r/vintagesewing with some fun answers. I figured I should ask r/myog because vintage machines are a common recommendation for people. What vintage machines do you use for what type of project?

I have a Necchi BU Nova and when I try to run medium thickness polyester embroidery thread I run into all sorts of issues that I’ve tried to resolve with tension adjustments etc.

At this point I’m hoping to find an easier thread to work with that will hold up decently well on things like hip packs, frame bags, and other gear of that sort.

What’s the lightest thread folks have had success with on gear like this?

Hi all, I would like to start my first project 🙌🏼 but i have some technical questions upfront and was hoping you could help.

The goal would be a bar bag which also works as fanny pack. Inspiration is the Aevor Bar Bag. I have an old trekking backpack which is basically unrepairable so I thought I could reuse the material. My backpack is made from Polyester and so is the Aevor but apparently there is a difference because mine is not waterproof.
Has anybody experience with waterproofing polyesters (without the usage of PFAS)?

Fired off my first frame bag to go with my new build for bikepacking. Used the u/pricklygorse pattern to keep things simple. Materials are EPX200 and waterproof zipper (#8). Sewn mostly on an old Singer Featherweight (nothing featherweight about that beast).

Bit of a learning curve sewing those funky shapes on there but in the end it was worth it! Setting out on a ~400km trip in Quebec next week to put it through its paces.

This weekend I got a sewing lessons from my Mum. I cut up an old pair of Levis to reinforce and put some fun patterns on the front of the pocket flaps. I'm wearing what's left of the jeans. It took a couple of craft days but I had such a good time doing it. Plus quality time with Mum.

I’ve created a slightly bizarre product: a mechanical picture frame that swaps between printed images after a set amount of time.

At its core, a small 3D-printed capstan fits onto the spindle of a standard quartz clock movement. As the spindle rotates, the capstan pulls a thread that triggers the image change.

In the picture:

• The gray piece holds the clock movement in place. Its projecting “boss” guides the thread and keeps it from escaping the capstan.
• The blue piece is the capstan in its installed position.
• The green line represents the thread. I currently use very thin fishing line to minimize diameter and friction.

The mechanism works reliably, but setting it up could be more user-friendly. Currently, the user must pass the fishing line through a tiny anchor point on the capstan, tie two overhand knots, and trim the excess. If it later needs adjustment or removal, the line usually has to be cut off.

I’m looking for either:

• Simple, mundane ways to make threading and tying this tiny line easier, or
• A clever, inexpensive, removable method of securing it without tying a knot at all.

The line is thin and slick, so anything based only on light friction may gradually slip. Space is limited, and the capstan cannot become much larger because the quartz clock movement produces very little torque.

Has anyone encountered a sewing, fishing, model-making, or MYOG solution that might fit this problem?

This little product demo explains the whole thing better: https://doubletakeframes.com/assets/videos/double-take-frames-demo-3x4.mp4

My Surplus german waterproof jacket has the seam tape basically disintegrating off. Whats the best way to repair it?

I’m doing a bike race tomorrow and I realized yesterday that I didn’t have a way to carry a phone, chapstick, or snacks. I clearly don’t usually race haha. I whipped up this thing and I’m pretty darn happy with it. It’s partially lined and the sides have foam for some structure. I, sorta, made button holes since I didn’t have any grommets. It does have some obvious mistakes, but I’m getting better with each project. I don’t have the time or materials to close in the seems, maybe I’ll do it later. At this point, I’m using voile straps on everything just because I have them and I switch them from each project.

I have made 2 frame bags so far, and I start out by tracing the frame onto cardboard. The bags I have made come out with very sharp corners on the triangle. I am looking to round off the corners to make the bags easier to sew. My question is, what tools or methods do you use to round off the corners neatly? Also, after you draft the rounded corners, how do you measure the perimeter of the frame bag to create the right length gusset?