* Steel: Wolfram carbon steel
* Blade Length: 5 inches
* Construction: Full tang
* Handle: Vintage Micarta scales and black Micarta pins
* Finish: Acid/Satin
* Grind: Flat
*HRC: 60

This blade is hand forged and American made. So American made that it was in fact made by an American hobbyist in his backyard lol

Sorry, trying to make this sound professional but looking at this and having a narrator in my head the whole time that sounds like the Ford f100 guy is just making it impossible for me to type this out in a serious way.

Anyways this knife is made by me. Tried to get a Hamon on this knife but didn't come out that well. Still came out great or at least i think so.

keep the forges hot and have a good day!

Not sure if this sub deals with foldable blades let’s hope I don’t get banned for asking something outlandish.

This is my cheap gravity knife, it’s sub 50 bucks. this frame is solid and feels fine, I guess where they cut costs is engineering and tolerance testing. The 2 torx bolts retain knob on the other side of the blade. Which is used as a guide to slide the blade in and out, thing is those two bolts came loose on me twice, and it keeps rattling and even marked up the inside of the frame you can see on the photo. Can I use Loctite to secure the bolts for longer time? should I weld that piece in place? I’m trying to get as much out of this 50 bucks purchase as possible lol.

Finally done with this commission

Made from 9KhS Soviet steel, with a walnut handle, brass, and textolite spacers

The shape and details are my own custom design, commissioned by one of the great customers I’ve had the pleasure of working with

It’s been a great journey working on this knife, and it’s also the first blade I’ve made using my new belt grinder. Really happy with how it turned out

Finished this one up a month or so ago for the ann arbor art fair, but just got around to posting it.

The blade is 15n20/1084 damascus with a low layer super loose twist multibar pattern. It features an asymmetric right handed S-grind that I did on a 14" wheel for food release and weight. Both the choil and spine are rounded for comfort. The handle is my modernized oval wa shape in desert ironwood with an african blackwood bolster. Let me know what you think! Nakiri are my favorite both to make and use in the kitchen :)

Blade forged from an old file. Not the first time forging a blade but my second one and second time forging anything at all. Shaped the handle to my fathers hand because he is the one this knife will go to. Grinding done with a 50€ bench grinder with a 686x50mm belt attachment

Something I've wanted to do for a while. I melted down the aluminum and copper at 10/90, so 10 percent Al. Poured it into a 10" piece of 1" DOM tubing, and forged it into a bar. Probably more decorative than functional, but aluminum bronze can be heat treated to the equivalent of medium carbon steel.

I am trying to make Needle from Hollow knight as a gift. Recommendations on what steel to use would be very helpful!

The knife has a 8 inch cutting edge and a 5.5 inch handle, handle scales are made from purple heart wood.

M1902 Damascus Sabre - 32" 225 layer damascus blade.  burl grip with brass back plated.  Brass US on the guard with a stylized brass buffalo head pommel.  Laser engraved Scabbard.

I'm in the process of mounting a Han era ji (Chinese "halberd") head, and I need to fabricate or purchase some strong cordage to lash it securely.

Ideally, I'd like something that doesn't look obviously synthetic, is either a neutral color or dyeable, resistant to fraying, and easy to tie-off under tension (or shrinkable in some manner).

I initially considered making rawhide lace from some rawhide I have leftover from an earlier shield making project, but I'm concerned that if I cut it narrowly enough to pass multiple times through the eyelets of the ji that it won't be strong enough to be functional.

Rawhide is appealing in that it's natural and broadly period-appropriate, colorable with leather dyes, generally pretty tough, very pliable to work with after soaking in water, but will then shrink and harden as it dries out. I'm just not confident that the very narrow strips I would need to cut for the lace to pass repeatedly through the eyelets of the ji and around the haft would be strong enough to hold up to the stresses of use (striking, thrusting, and hooking from multiple angles). Also, being an organic material, one can not realistically count on a uniformity of strength throughout a strip of rawhide lace. Braided rawhide cordage would help compensate for that, but doing so would make it too thick to make the multiple passes through the eyelets necessary for a secure lashing to their hafts.

The eyelets are approximately 1 cm (0.39") wide, and 3 mm (0.118") tall.

I'm hoping to find some suggestions for a lashing material that fits my needs. I'm willing to be flexible with regard to period appropriateness and appearance in favor of functional strength and security of the binding. If necessary, I can disguise it in some way with paint, lacquer, colored wax).