I often see PVMs being sold on auction sites with descriptions like "the power turns on but nothing is displayed." Is it normal for nothing to be displayed, or is it broken? I'm not very knowledgeable about this, so I'd appreciate it if someone could tell me.

I'm in the procces of designing my own DVD Menu for Amazing Stories Season 2.

If you look closely, it's becoming a bowl

I am scared of testing it, should I open it and clean it first?

Edit: it’s a Grundig

I need to discharge a sony trinitron 34", is it safe? The screwdriver's blade is 203 mm

(Skip to the last mini paragraph if you just want to read the question)

So currently I’m planning to make a flat screen crt, I know currently the problems with flat screen crts is the warping and what I call the “psuedo-flatness”. By pseudo-flatness I mean how it looks flat initially then has a large bump dead center behind the screen.

Don’t get me wrong, I understand why both of these problems exist, the module is still large so it’s gonna still show up physically, and shrinking it to display on a bigger screen is gonna cause warping to the image.

My initial idea is to have 4 small modules display an singular image, each displaying a single corner, hopefully fixing both of these previous issues without extra complications.

Now for the question, I’m not very familiar with crt internals, I just had this idea come to me a couple days ago. I’m not sure about most of this, so can anyone point me to like an expert of crts, pcbs, or electronics in general to help me out please?
(Ofc I am more than willing to pay for their assistance because I know this is a big ask that might go nowhere)
Thank you in advance:)

This is only partly about crts but I can’t see an lcd sub redit so I’d really appreciate it if anyone here can offer any help.

I was using a widescreen Sony crt until it recently stop working, it was from 1998 and supported 60hz (this is important because I live in a pal country but play a lot of ps1 imports (which all played great on it)). I tried to get another crt but it literally broke the next day so I’m kind of sick of the hassle now (I know this isn’t the right place to say this lol and I do love these TVs but I just can’t be bothered anymore). So as an alternative and since I don’t like new TVs, I was looking at this Sony Bravia KDL-23b4050 lcd tv that’s from 2008 as I liked the look of it, however the back sticker only says 50hz. This has confused me so I looked at a couple of other Sonys from the time and they say the same but why? My tele from 10 years prior supported 60hz so why did they stop was it not standardised yet? Did the change the technology slow / reverse progress or something? Or is it just a misprint?

What’s also strange is I have a 15” lcd from 2006, by a brand I’ve never heard of, which (although doesn’t have a sticker so I can’t see if it advertised it) does support 60hz so why does a top tier brand like Sony not?

I have a Toshiba 36a42, which is like 155lbs. This trinitron I have on there now is like 89lbs. Do you think this stand would be able to support that? It’s pretty old so I think it’s made for big TVs, I just don’t know how to verify how much weight it can bare.

Sorry for the messy photo, don't know how to capture CRTs just yet lol.

Been wanting one for years now, after watching my tapes from an old LCD and it died, it seemed like the time. We moved to a new city, got a bigger apartment and now there's finally room for one.

The seller drove a hard bargain and I believe I overpaid at least 50%, maybe even 60%, but I'm still satisfied with the purchase. It's a cool unit and works flawlessly.

It was 60€ from an 23" 1980s Luxor. The seller drove a hard bargain and wouldn't budge no matter what. Maybe I should have checked his bluff and be patient, but I really wanted a CRT and now one was finally within reach, working too, so I gave in.

I gotta say how much different (better) it is watching tapes from an actual tube instead of LCD flat screen lmao. This is great.

(Not sure what flair to put this under). I have a bit of fire paranoia and I will unplug every electronic I can before I leave my house. And only plug them up while I’m using them. But I recently got an old 1997 CRTV and I’m wondering will this negatively impact it in any way that’s detrimental? (Crossposted)

Monday is usually movie night, but I decided I was gonna lay in bed and binge watch this under-appreciated classic.

Any idea what could be causing this? It usually starts up clear then the flicker becomes prominent. After an hour or two of running it sort of subsides.

Just watched this long form video about the security vulnerabilities in modern LG Smart TV's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IFVTcM28KA

Honestly, the more I think about the price, the security vulnerabilities, and all the ads and spyware put into these smart TV's, it makes me love my combination CRT/VHS player all the more.
The way I've been thinking about things, I've really been appreciating what my older TV both does and does NOT have. It has perfectly good picture quality, plays my tapes, and isn't constantly trying to harvest my data!

Just something I've been thinking about.

It cleans moldy tapes! This is likely a nightmare inside.

Came across this video on TikTok saying to not listen to crt propaganda and to a get a plasma tv better and then someone in the comments said “crt hate will not be tolerated” and they put a photo of their tv and I thought it was really cool but someone said replied to them saying “it’s a ticking time bomb btw” and I asked how? they replied saying “Crt’s had to have many Safety measures as the Mechanism inside of it is a tube which can implode at any moment if not looked after” Ik this sounds stupid but is this true and should I be worried since it’s my first time owning one?
(Edit: thank you everyone for the help, I definitely should’ve thought more clearly instead of listening to that dumbass person and will for sure do proper research next time and try not to be so gullible 🫩)

Hello! I am helping a friend set up a crt display and I have never done anything with this style of input. We have a RCA to HDMI converter and it's all hooked up, however we aren't seeing any results with casting their computer screen to the CRT. We also don't have the remote, and we suspect that the issue is not being able to switch the input.

Does anyone have any clue as to how to switch the input without a remote or if there is a setting/issue we are missing?

Model is a DWT1905 by Durabrand

Found this baby on Marketplace. He was selling for $150, but parted with it for $125. 36-inches, about 200 pounds, and overall just *massive*. I've seen smaller models listed on Marketplace and Kijiji for like $300, but maybe that's because a 20" is more moveable.

Anyway, an absolutely amazing find, even if I nearly killed my friends and me as we moved it, and I had to ride in the trunk on the way to my place. Purchasing some retro consoles and games soon, but for now, I'm enjoying classic anime with scan-lines, as God intended.

Edit: Oh, I've got my Firestick plugged into it with an HDMI to S-video downscaler. Hopefully the damn thing doesn't crap out on me.

Just got this Sylvania TV if I unplug it for a while as soon as the power cord hits the outlet I can hear a small click and the TV refuses to power up is there any directions I can go for this I have a multimeter I've done soldering before just new to CRT TVs

¡Hola a todos!

Hace poco me hice con un auténtico santo grial / unicornio de la historia de los CRT europeos: un televisor Sony KW-HD3215 de la línea HDVS de principios de los 90, funcionando con el chasis EH1. Este bicho se construyó allá en la época analógica del HDMAC en Europa.

El TV enciende y está presente el alto voltaje, pero me topé con un problema de video. Estoy viendo unas líneas horizontales de retorno (retrace) muy tenues y oscuras en todas las entradas analógicas estándar (Scart/RCA), y no aparece ningún texto de OSD (menú en pantalla) en absoluto. Cuando cambio a la entrada HD, la pantalla se queda totalmente en negro, así que parece que el tubo y los voltajes de G2/Pantalla están bien. El LED de standby queda fijo, sin códigos de parpadeo.

Se siente como una falla típica de la matriz de video/procesamiento de sincronía, o como que un regulador de voltaje de 5V/9V murió y está dejando sin alimentación por completo la placa analógica. El tema es que los capacitores de esa época les encanta fugarse, pudrirse y comerse las pistas, y diagnosticar este monstruo a ciegas es una pesadilla.

Busqué en todos lados en internet y el único manual de servicio que encontré (como el que está en Internet Archive) está incompleto y se corta justo alrededor de la página 51, faltando todos los diagramas de circuito cruciales para las placas de video.

¿Alguien por Europa (o Japón, si por casualidad tienen documentos del modelo hermano KW-3200HD) tiene una copia física del manual de taller o scans en alta resolución de los esquemáticos? De verdad quiero conservar este pedazo de historia de la tecnología.

Cualquier pista, número de parte o puntos de referencia de voltaje para el chasis EH1 sería una salvación. ¡Gracias de antemano!

sony kv-14v5u