Wondering if anyone has any advise before I take this to a shop and have to pay for someone to help me.

I was installing a dashcam on my 2013 Toyota Corolla using a hardwire kit. It's the Rove 4k dual dashcam.

My first thought was to use slot 12 (25a) "ACC-B" for constant 12v and slot 23 (15a) "CIG" for the yellow ignition power.

When I pulled the fuse for slot 23 my voltage meter didn't detect any power from either end. I thought maybe it wasn't in use and instead pulled slot 1 (15a) SEAT HTR and connected my yellow to that.

I then tested it out by turning on the car and the dashcam worked on startup but not on standby, and I noticed my clock, radio display, and cig charger all had no power. All my other lights seem to work and are functional along with doors etc.

I swapped from slot 12 to slot 22 (20a) "Sunroof" for constant 12v (because I dont have a sunroof) and that seems to work fine for the dash cam. However replacing the fuse in slot 12 didn't fix my clock and radio.

So I'm currently left with a working dashcam which is great but no clock or radio which is sad. I'm looking for guidance on what to check for.

My two theories are either

1. the slot 23 "CIG" controls all 3 of those and by pulling out the fuse I damaged it which is why my voltage read no power at all in that slot.
2. Slot 12 "ACC B" controls all those and was blown/damaged when I swapped in that wire initially.

However neither fuse "looks" blown from my amateur eyes at least, and I'm unsure how to verify what else the issue could be. Tried to look up the mappings for what controls what but seeing mixed answers. Hoping someone has some good advice I can try to make my DIY a success not a failure.

Pictures are of my fuse box label and initial state of the fuses. The only difference now is the wires in 1 and 22 which are working.

UPDATE:

I got my fuse tester and tested all the fuses both on the inside of the car and under the hood. They all came back good. I also flipped the ones that were reversed.

While I was doing this I did confirm that both 17 and 23 don't read any voltage on the voltage meter when the car is turned on, so I assume something is interfering with the electricity running to those slots that is not fuse related.

2026 Toyota 4Runner Limited finished in Heritage Blue. Shot on Sony A6000. Enjoy! * NOT MINE

I’m the second owner of this 2010 Toyota Matrix XR. It has 269,623 km (167,535 mi) on it, and the owner kept the paperwork of ALL the maintenance it had done on it from Day #1, the file folder is about an inch thick. He says it was well taken care of. The asking price was $6,000 CAD ($4,336 USD) but I talked him down to $5,000 CAD ($3,613 USD), with four free winter tires. Needed a new car as I just moved to a new city for college yesterday. I used to drive a Subaru WRX, but I’m loving my Matrix so far!

Test drove a Corolla yesterday and realized it’s just not enough car for me. Too small and even though I’m only 5’10, I still felt my shoulders were too wide and arms too long and it was just uncomfortable. Once I got into the 2026 Camry LE I knew I wanted the Camry. I have $30k and I’d be willing to put down somewhere between $12k-$20k dollars. That being said, I don’t want to take the depreciation hit on a brand new car even though it is tempting being that new are sometimes only a few thousand more than used. Anyways, I’m now trying to decide between a used 2023, 2024, and maybe 2025 LE Hybrid. This will be my first car that is not a bucket off fb marketplace. I really like unground grey. Second option would be white or silver. Now that I know the model I’m just looking for insight. I’m coming from absolute nightmarish cars so this is the first time in 10 years that I’m getting myself something reliable. It’ll be what I call, my first “adult car”. Thoughts?

It's a 1998 naturallv aspirated 1.3 L 4efe. I'm obsessed with the engine sound already.

This one is mechanically really nice but cosmetically a bit rough around the edges.

I need a front bumper because the grill has been cut out of this one at some point.

I'm waiting to collect some 14" MK1 mr2 teardrop wheels next week and then there's some filler that needs to be knocked off and done properly, and then paint.

10/10 would recommend

The carpet is wet on top and underneath where the carpet rests on the metal can anyone help me.. where might the water be coming from

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I am very much a DIY person. When working on vehicles I find that following the factory service manuals are just the absolute gold standard on repairs and maintenance.

Every vehicle I've worked on I've been able to find service manuals through eBay or websites that specialize in manuals.

I for the life of me cannot find a 2013 Toyota Yaris service manual.

Does anyone know how to get a hold of one of these?

I have been negotiating on a 26 Crown Signia XLE (white oak) in the midwest.

Current MSRP is around $47250 (including delivery and handing).

The white oak is considered a premium color so it comes with an additional $475 price tag.

The floor liners are just above $300. Same goes for mud guards.

Taking into all of this into account, I have been able to negotiate down to $43250.

I feel that this is a decent especially considering that to find this trim and color, I had to look 2 hours away.

Is this a reasonable price?

Hey everyone,

First time leasing a car, and really need some guidance. I want to make sure I'm not missing any obvious red flags or getting taken advantage of.

Here are the numbers I have so far:

Vehicle: RAV4 LE AWD (Gas)

Term: 36 months / 10,000 miles a year

Down Payment: $0

Due at Signing: $379

Monthly Payment: $379

Money Factor (MF) & Residual: don't have them yet

Given the current market, does this seem like a fair deal? Also, as a first-timer, what questions should I ask the dealer?

Appreciate any help or tips!

How do u guys get your Zenix fully charged? Our car seems to be at 3 bars and haven’t seen it progress to 4 bars yet. Been using the gas since it’s not getting full charged. Just conscious i might be doing something wrong and not fully utilizing its battery.

Hello everyone,

I purchased a 2026 Camry SE in Dark Cosmos yesterday for $35,5 OTD. The dealer includes what ultimately ended up being a “complimentary package” aka dealer upgrade that is done to every new car that leaves the dealership— “Charging Cable Kit/XPEL Solar Plate Premium Tint/XPEL Paint Protection Partial Hood & Fender Fronts/XPEL Paint Protection Doors/Wheel Locks”. The vehicle is still on the truck to be delivered, so it hasn’t received the dealership outfitting yet.

I want the XPEL tints for sure, but I am worried about having the partial hood/fender coverage leaving a line in the hood over time, and potentially on the doors as I believe they only do the bottom portion.

If it were you, would you decline the XPEL Partial Hood/Fender and Door Protections to later opt for a full ceramic coating (third party)? I don’t want to lose out on the value of the XPEL coverage, but the partial coverage makes me feel like it’s not worth it all together, maybe just have the front bumper wrapped. What do you all think?

Just installed a new Kicker Key 200.4 in my 2025 Camry hybrid. I used a T-harness to keep factory wiring intact. I installed components (tweeters in dash, 6.25" in doors). I wired the tweeters directly to AMP1 output and connected AMP2 output to the white and grey wiring pairs (which correspond with dash speakers) (so that I could use factory wiring to doors without having to run new wiring). I have Metra harnesses with the loops on the wiring for the dash tweeters so that the door speakers should still be in the circuit. DIP switches are set to biamp mode.

I'm only getting audio from the dash tweeters.
What am I missing here?

Thanks

0.4mV (100mA) Parasitic Battery Drain from Radio Fuse on 2024 Toyota Corolla Cross

My 12V battery keeps dying every 24–48 hours. I did a voltage drop test on the fuse box after letting the car sleep and the 15A radio fuse is pulling 0.4mV continuously. The DCM (Telematics) is at 0.1 mV.

The vehicle is a 2024 Chinese-spec Corolla Cross Hybrid imported unofficially thus no dealership warranty.

I have turned off the bluetooth, recently changed the battery, disconnected the battery's negative cable for a few hours, and removed the DCM fuse. but the reading was the same 0.4mV.

Any suggestions would be great.

2018 CHR. 280k miles. New Transmission at 201k miles. Transmission drain & refill at 266k miles. 3 week old spark plugs.

Backstory: 6 weeks ago I was on a 9 hr journey. My car suddenly lurched (almost maybe like a misfire?) twice. I stopped let the car rest and it stopped, but I thought I felt a slight pulsing in my gas pedal. Returned home. I figured it was just some bad gas so I filled up with premium for the next few weeks. Replaced spark plugs. Did highway driving to work (45-75 mins) and had no issues just my regular sluggish acceleration.

Yesterday: starting a 5k mi roadtrip. 7 hours in I start feeling the pulsing again yet it’s still functioning. I start up a mountain pass and it starts to really pulse and slightly lurch forward (would jerk if I tried to go over 50mph uphill). It started to get progressively worse - not jerking violently unless I attempted to accelerate.

Thoughts: Fuel Pump?, Catalytic Converter?, O2 sensors?, Some part of the Transmission (so help me God)??

I’m trying to brace myself for an expensive repair just didn’t know if anyone would have any solid ideas. I managed to get a dealership appointment for after Labor Day in Denver. Any advice on small checks I can make before I drop it off to eliminate things would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Ciao a tutti, ho una toyota yaris cross da febbraio 2025, tutto perfetto e nessun problema, a parte UNA cosa. Quando collego android auto e ricevo o faccio una chiamata, sento l'audio dallo speaker del mio smartphone (Galaxy A52s 5G - Android 14), se provo a selezionare l'uscita audio "Toyota" si scollega immediatamente e torna a usare lo speaker dello smartphone. Non capisco, perché riesce a collegarsi e a rilevare "Toyota" ma appena entra in chiamata non passa l'audio sulla vettura? Se uso spotify o qualsiasi altro multimedia nessun problema.

Hello, I'm doing research for buying a car (duh, why else would I be here?)

I'm going to buy used, and I'm not really picky about dealer-certified, or private sale.

Ideally, the bells-and-whistles features I'm looking for are:

1. Heated Steering wheel (due to chronic pain - makes for less pain when driving)

2. Backup camera (my weakness in driving is parking)

3. Panoramic View Monitor (again, due to parking skills)

What is the oldest (and hopefully cheapest) year, model and trim level I can buy, that would include these features?

I'm assuming Bluetooth connection would come standard, once I consider the features listed above.

Thanks for your help!

My budget allows for either a 2018 hybrid or a 2020 non hybrid.

I haven't researched it but maybe even a non hybrid 2018 with all the bells and whistles (updated trim)

I am curious if the 2018 suffers from any issues since it is the first car of a new generation, I had this issue with my 2016 honda civic and it had horrible AC issues.

What would you choose in my situation?

One of my favorite sedans was Toyota Mark 2, came with such a powerful engine of 2000cc to 2500cc or other GTE engines, offering up to 200 HP, made a great drift machine or a drag when the engine was upgraded too.

I bought a 2019 Toyota C-HR XLE, 85K miles, for $17,988 from CarMax. I’m still within the return window.

I had a bumper-to-bumper inspection done. Everything looked pretty good, except there is no service history of the transmission fluid being changed.

The car currently drives/shifts normally with no obvious transmission issues. But at 85K miles, with no documentation of CVT fluid service, am I taking an unnecessary gamble? I've read that the fluid should be changed every 30k-60k miles.

Thanks for your input/help.

I own a 2023 RAV4 hybrid xse and it has around 37k miles on it.

I recently noticed that during cold start the engine vibrates a little too much. It wasn’t this bad previously. This started around 36k miles and has continued. I have done all the required servicing from authorized dealer. The vehicle has never been damaged or has any work done.

Just wanted to get an opinion from the community before I take the car to the shop.

So today I went and had to get myself a new Corolla seeing as how my current Corolla is basically on the verge of death. Anyways I picked up a 2024 Corolla LE and I’m having some issues with Siri on car play I’m kinda hoping someone can tell me if there’s a way to fix it. It seems to be only lowering the audio of the driver side front speaker and Siri is just so much quiet than the rest of everything playing so it’s hard to hear. I’ve made sure siris volume is all the way up but even then it’s still basically impossible to make out what’s she’s saying. Is there a way to just completely mute all the music or can I make it so all the speakers lower rather than just 1 speaker? Feel like I’m going insane. I read online other people having the problem but is there a way to actually fix it? Thanks for the help!

I have a 2017 Hyundai Sonata that’s on its last legs and I want a newer, much more reliable car.

I’ll be using the car for my regular commute and for hour long drives to different places, so it’ll be a lot of stop-and-go driving, as well as regular highway driving.

I don’t need too much space in the car because it’s just for me, but I do want a safe car in case of accidents. Ideally a car with higher ground clearance because the area I’m planning on moving to has lots of traffic and is prone to flooding.

Based on my research so far, it seems like the Corolla Cross and the RAV4 Hybrids are decent options. Any experience with those or other models?