r/Kazakhstan • u/kommunistsorceress • 20h ago
Tourism/Turizm Solo-Travel in Kazakhstan as a black (mixed) woman
Just finished a little solo trip in Kazakhstan where I visited Almaty and Shymkent.
Almaty is a great city to visit. There are many museums to visit, hiking trails, and buildings to see. The city is full of little cafés and it probably has more benches than inhabitants (which is great if you plan on doing a walking tour through Almaty). There are parks absolutely everywhere and the city is very clean.
Public transportation is really good, with buses taking you absolutely everywhere, even in to Shymbulak, Alma-Aransan, and the Big Almaty Lake. Almaty itself is also a very walkable city. I couldn’t make an Onay account, so I just payed cash by going up to the bus driver and giving him 200KZT (the cost is 120KZT with the Onay card). When someone came to check the tickets, I just explained that I had payed cash.
I didn’t expect people to be able to speak English, though I thought younger people would. However, only about a quarter to a third of teenagers and young adults seemed comfortable speaking in English. This was no problem for me, as I also speak Russian.
Shymkent was also walkable and had many buildings to see. My highlight was the citadel. The entry cost only 1000 KZT.
Language-wise, I could only speak Russian in Shymkent and people very often answered in a Kazakh-Russian mix (still easy to understand if accompanied with some gestures).
I traveled from Almaty to Shymkent by train. It leaves Almaty at around 19:00 and arrives in Shymkent at 6:30. I reserved a bed in a sleeper cabin, which was very comfortable. There was hot drinking water in the train and many sanitary facilities. Tickets cost about 12000 KZT.
As a woman, I did not feel unsafe per se, though men could be quite penetrant and were not discouraged by disinterest or the usual “I have a boyfriend”.
As for being a black POC. Kazakh people in Almaty did not care at all. The looks I received were almost only from Russians. In Shymkent however, I received a lot of uncomfortable looks from pretty much everyone. It wasn’t terrible, I think what made it harder to deal with than usual was the language barrier (since I do not speak the Kazakh language).
I left Kazakhstan by taking a shared Taxi to Kaplanbek. All I had to do was to go to Kolos (Shymkent) and I was immediately approached. I was also given the same price as everyone else.
I will definitely be coming back as I absolutely loved my time in Kazakhstan and want to see so much more of the country.