I have been lurking in this subreddit for a couple of months now, looking at all the different ideas and projects you people have. Very inspiring and i enjoy checking in every now and then. Thought i might finally share my own project i started back in 2024 when i was still doing my apprenticeship as a joiner and managed to finish and "mass produce" this and last year. I am BIG into the entire "Serving" and "Slave" aspect and me and my wife enjoy it a lot. So i got some inspiration from other makers online and made my own version of a Bondage Serving Tray.

First i made two routing patterns made out of multiplex as its great for tracing. Sawed my Oakwood (one of my favourite woods), planed it and glued it using PU glue. Then i traced everything down. The Slits are meant for optional nipple play. I had to drill the holes and use a jigsaw to do a rough cutout, then use my routing pattern again to make the holes nice and round. I used a third routing pattern for the leather inlay, routing at a depth of about 3mm to let the leather stick out nicely. That was the biggest hassle for me and i still need to work on improvement there. For sanding, i started with 120 grit discs and went up to 220 using water. In general, i can recommend using water instead of oil (if you plan on oiling your wood) as it works just as well as oiling it but doesnt clog up your discs as fast. Just be careful to not overdo is as it may result in your wood warping. So i used water 120 to 220 and later 300 to 600 grit for an ultra smooth finish using oil. The two brass toppings on the threaded screws used to be brass nuts that i grinded down and polished. I also used Resin 3D printing to make custom parts for the leather strap holdings at the bottom of the screws. I changed the rivets from normal ones to threaded ones as i got feedback from a customer that they werent holding (sadly) and added stainless steel strips to the neck strap for extra weight support. Using a stamping tool usually used in car fixes/riveting of car sheet metal, i managed to punch holes through the steel as drilling resulted in my fingers almost getting decapitated multiple times. For the leather corners, i had to use a woodfiller to fill up any gaps as i hand cut the leather using a ruler and scalpel, which resulted in some unclean edges, different sizes and so on.

Overall, i would say one board takes me around 6 hours (being very generous with the time haha) to complete, not including downtime from glues to harden and oils to sink in. If youre interested in more BTS you can check my IG account. I have got a separate post there where i show much more detail in how i made it. I did half of the work in the company i work at and the rest in my own workshop where i have a big pillar drilling machine that i got myself last year and a bunch of Makita Power tools.

Im pretty happy with how it turned out at the end! Love the part where you have to figure out how you make different parts work with each other, figure out ways to solve problems and so on. It was a great project! Let me know what you think, i love improvement ideas and criticism :) Working on my next two projects now which include steam bending wood and a serving tray for wine/sparkling wine glasses.

Powered off a windshield wiper motor, most parts are 3d printed apart from bearings, aluminum rails, and the electronics .

I still need to make a nice housing for the electronics and make better mounting, but it works pretty well.

I have an extra password protected settings page with a speed limiter for safety.

I am also planning on making a female attachment for it soon.

Let me know if you have any questions

EDIT- extra info

Motor is the windshield wiper from a 05 express van, I just went to a scrapyard and took one from the car with the biggest windshield I could find, I bypassed the control circuitry and wired directly to the motor. It is actually a 12v motor on a 30v supply so running it above like 40% for to long may cause issues and a lower lifespan.

For the speed control, I just used a cheap pulse width modulation board off Amazon that said it could handle the throughput and could be controlled by a 5v signal off the raspberry pi, it didn't exactly work so I had to add a small heatsink and a 1N5208 diode, because it was overheating after a few seconds.

You could also just use a dial speed controller and skip the raspberry pi and other module.

For the online control I used a raspberry pi 5 and ngrok to host, I need to learn python and html but I just googled my way through making the online portion of it, it wasn't to bad if you are just planning on giving the link to one trusted person but I did a bit more I added some extra features that complicated it, like a que to control and an extra speed limiter. If you want my program instead of making one I can sent it out somehow after making some modifications and checking security.

For the power supply I just have a bench top unit I am using but you can order a 30v 5a one for like 30$ to streamline it a bit.

For the frame I just used 1.5in extruded aluminum railing and some nuts and bolts I had.

For the 3d printed parts I designed a basic mount with for the motor, just keep clearance for moving parts in mind. The stroke length is determined by the circumference of the short arm( the one directly attached to the motor) I had designed a part for thus, but my motor came with an arm that was really close to the length I needed. I grabbed a extruded aluminum rail profile off GrabCAD and made the slider made sure there was plenty of clearance, minimal contact points on a few small faces to reduce friction, some grease helps too. also keep in mind how long the slider is, longer will reduce tilting but adds a bit more friction. And I already had some bearings OD 22 ID8 Hight 7, that I used on either end of the long arm to reduce friction.

And I just grabbed some PVC as a spacer and to make it easy to swap out lengths and attachments.

I can also send over my 3d files or potentially make new ones.

Short parts list
windshield wiper from a 05 express van 30$

DC 5V-36V 15A 400W Dual MOSFET Trigger Switch Drive Module 8$

or

WM Motor Driver, DC 5V-24V 5A 150W for manual control 10$

1N5408 Rectifier Diode IN5408 3 A 1000 V between speed control output + and -, to protect speed controller (optional) 7$ for 50

Small heat sync for the Dual MOSFET controller depending on which one you get, mine NEEDED it. $ ~8 to buy, i just ripped mine out of something old a while ago.

1.5in extruded aluminum rail, about 16in for the slider, and another 16? for the support legs so it does not tilt $~50 again i just got mine out of something else.

like 300g of PLA so make the 3d printed parts $5

Unfortunate that the name I picked for these toys has a word that can be flagged by community rules 😂 I'm just showing off a shorty dragon tail I promise.

Usually I make these with cowhide or lambskin layered over vegtan leather, but I got my hands on stingray and wanted to take a whack at making a meaner toy.

First of all, making this toy was just as mean as the marks it can leave. Be prepared to have a sacrifical pair of heavy duty scissors or disposable blades to cut this. And if you're gonna do something that involves stitching like I do, be prepared to hand stitch it. Even if the sewing machine goes through the hide, the tension paired with the calcified nodules shreds even heavy duty thread.

How's it feel? Imagine a dragon tail that has abrasive sequins.

Green

Red

Lots of custom furniture. The yellow chair has been affectionately named the Banana Chair. It’s almost perfect for dishing out spankings.

The black cart is an old WW2 ordnance cart I rebuilt into a rolling platform. It was in really rough shape when I got it. Right now it has my immobilizer on it.

I have sawhorses, and Spanish horses. I’ve spent the better part of three years putting all this together. I have some heavy duty camera gear too, as I enjoy that aspect of it.

If you recognize me from some other subs please don’t out my main account. I can verify who I am if needed.

Feel free to ask any questions and I’ll do my best to answer them

I feel like a while back I saw someone either in here or somewhere else, using a POÄNG chair for some bondage, unfortunately i cant find the post/clip anymore

It was used to have the subs legs tied up/ spread out, and looking at the back of the chair it did look pretty straight forward and comfortable as well actually; the fact that it can rock lightly is also a great bonus in my eyes

It would mostly for me be a question of, where the ties or restraints would be placed, and how much rope might be necessary/ what other type of restraint can be used to do this

Does anyone in here by any chance have any experience with using the chair or actually have the post/ clip?

I want to share the bondage travel kit that my partner and I have developed over the past few years of experimentation. This kit is inexpensive to acquire from scratch, fits in a discreet little pouch, and opens up a world of restraint possibilities in the hotel, AirBnB, winter cabin, etc.

First, here are the pieces and their current costs (links are provided to Amazon for convenience, but these things can be had almost anywhere...these aren't affiliate links or anything, I'm just trying to share a good kit):

Cuffs ($10/2)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073188FBP

Tie-Down Webbing ($10/6):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1NV536
1500lb breaking

Paracord ($9/100ft):
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Basics-Paracord-7-Strand-Strength/dp/B08HNZB3PZ/
550lb tensile strength

Nite Ize CamJam XT ($12/each):
https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Tightener-Versatile-Mechanism/dp/B00KSKY0KS/
280lb working load, 840lb break strength

Carabiner,12KN ($10/4)
https://www.amazon.com/L-Rover-Carabiner-Pack-12KN-Aluminium-caribeaners/dp/B073TL6RSJ/
2700lb rated

First I want to be clear that we're talking about bedroom bondage here. This is...spread eagle on the hotel bed, or ankles-to-wrists, or standing in the bathroom door frame, etc...not suspension or anything where the equipment is protecting life or safety. I've listed some strength numbers just to show that, despite these things being very cheap, they are still quite strong...especially since the load is likely to come from a single limb.

I've listed things in what I would consider the order of importance.

• We own two sets of the cuffs...they fit my wrists and ankles and my partners, which are very slender. Ostensibly meant for gym exercises but do yourself a favor and read the Amazon reviews...most people are doing our sort of exercise ($20 total)
• The webbing is kind of the secret sauce, more on this later ($10 for 6)
• Paracord is cheap, light, and strong. Not sure I'd recommend it for rope bondage, but that's not the point here. We'll use cuffs for the limbs, webbing for the anchors, and 550lb paracord in between ($9 gets you more than enough)
• This is where the money is. The CamJam XT is a brilliant little one-way cord binder that is also easy to release. You don't have to have these, but I love them. Tie your victim partner down loosely and then it all comes together in the final moment when you zip tension into everything at once for a great "oh my" moment ($48 for 4, not always in stock)
• We don't actually travel with the carabiners, actually, but some quick-connects can be very handy, and they are very cheap ($10 for 4)

If you buy the entire shopping list from scratch, you are at $97. Skip the CamJams and carabiners, and you can have just as much fun with a few extra knots for $40.

The nylon webbing turns the world into a bonanza of anchor points. I have shown some of my favorites...leg of the bed, bed slat pulling up (less optimal) or down (very strong, you can use two straps for extra length or just reach under there with your carabiner or cord), the door of your hotel bathroom (carabiner shown as the blockage in the photos, or just use the hotel pen or something). But get creative...headboard rails, bed posts, chair slats, radiator pipes, sturdy fixtures or curtain rods (careful of your partner's strength if you want to keep your security deposit).

I prefer my bondage to be genuine (i.e. inescapable), not symbolic. In the interest of compactness, some sacrifices had to be made, but I think it's worth it.

• Velcro cuffs: honestly, it's extremely difficult to get these off, if you aren't the one who put them on. At home, we have cuffs where a hasp goes through a slot, and when there is a lock or rope through the hasp they can't come off. You could upgrade to those if you wish, but I think that if you keep your partner busy, they won't have the concentration or coordination to remove these. The Velcro is very grabby.
• CamJam and knots: I have demonstrated a way that you can use the CamJam such that there are no knots in reach. This is a token demo, obviously...but imagine the CamJam remaining near the floor while the cuff is up on the bed. If all that goes through the d-ring on the cuff is a loop of paracord, and the knot and CamJam are down at the side of the bed...there's nothing for the bottom to untie or unclip. If you have a brat or just want to be certain, wrap that tail around something so they can't rotate the loop. On the other hand, if you just want your partner's hands out of the way and they are docile, then tie or clip the cord to the webbing, and clip the CamJam directly to the cuffs, and in ten seconds you have a very speedy cinch.

It all packs down into the little duffel bag as shown....that bag happens to come with each pair of cuffs, so you'll get two...even though all four cuffs, the webbing, CamJams, and paracord all fit into one. Carabiners on the outside for scale.

I hope these ideas help some other enthusiasts have a bit of fun when they are in their next hotel room, away from the kids. Or wherever you may be. Enjoy!

Hi All. I came across this piece of furniture on Ebay... it looks amazing and I'm planning to start making a few little things for the house... Can anyone tell me what this type of wood is called? or what type of joinery it is?
Can wood be purchased like this? How does it get so smooth, just sanding?

Hi, I’ve been keen to build a portable st Andrews cross, that when broken down, is hidden in plain sight (or the back of a closet).

I’ve found some blueprints online, but didn’t love any of them. Does anyone have any plans they’ve used in the past?

I am trying to mount a Shackle in the ceiling my bedroom. It is attached to a 4x4x2 that brings the height down to drywall height. The shackle is bolted through the 4x4x2 to a 4x4x8 with m8 bolts. And lock nuts in the other side with a large washer. The x8 is strung across four ceiling joists that are 2x4. Then I attached the 4x4x8 to the ceiling joists with Simpson strong tie galvanized deck post ties. I haven't tried load testing it to see any ceilibg flex, but just looking to see if anybody has any opinion on what I can do better. I live in a rancher on slab base built in the 60s.

I know it looks gross, but it's a start, not an end.

Forget expensive click-connectors, $50 gel dildos, telescoping rods, etc. Turns out all you need is a $8.59 cock sleeve from eBay, a 1.25" pine dowel from a big box hardware store, a pocketknife, and sandpaper. Whittle/sand the end of the pine rod to match the curve on the underside of the head of the cock sleeve (turn the sleeve inside out and you'll see what I mean), unroll the cock sleeve over it, and ta-da! Wife and I have used this several times, it doesn't buckle or bend, she is very very happy, and my wrist no longer hurts. :-)

When I was designing my vacuum bed, I couldn't find any clear pictures online of what we were looking for. Now that I'm on the other side of the project, it felt important to post it for anyone else who might be in the same shoes.

We call it The Chrysalis. It's an iridescent TPU bag on a rigid frame that I designed and built from the ground up.

I wanted to take a different approach from traditional vacbeds. They always seem to push toward the extreme and dark, which is cool, but just not our everyday style. We get huge benefits from deep pressure therapy and run sessions about every other day for that. Entering a shiny, happy bed helps you come out happy. We also have playful friends, and this design makes the experience approachable and fun for everyone, whether for sexual play or nervous system calming.

Key Features:

• Interchangeable neck seals: Accommodates different neck sizes with airtight comfort.
• Adjustable access ports: Swappable seals for different anatomy and body heights, plus a solid blanking plug for purely therapeutic/sensory sessions.
• Self-indexing clamp bar: Quick-release setup using just four hand-tightened star knobs to achieve an airtight seal in seconds.
• Reinforced frame & integrated manifold: EMT conduit inside the PVC frame prevents flex entirely, with a rigid bulkhead connection and built-in filtered air inlets.

I'm completely open to questions about the build. I’d love to get the word out about a less intimidating approach to vacuum beds—it’s been a really meaningful and fun project for us.

More pictures will follow 😉

Would somebody be able to make a Spin Wheel (like the one shown in the pic) but where the individual options are adjustable so you’d be able to give more weight to some options and less to others? I also think a dry erase white board material would work best. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

Im thinking about ordering these Bluetooth ear plugs (not ear buds) to play brown noise under my sensory deprivation hood. Brown noise is a deep, rumbling background sound that emphasizes lower frequencies and feels softer and less harsh than white noise. There are audio clips of constant brown noise that are 12 or more hours long. Its a very comforting sound that makes me feel im floating and blocks out other sounds. Has anyone ever tried earplugs like these?

So what (i think) I understand:

The eccentric weight's mass will define power. EDIT: how much it offsets the center of mass, to be exact, which factors in radius.

RPM can also boost power, but also buzziness.

And that's about it. The parts I suspect but don't know:

Would the weight's casing's mass (the head's mass) affect power/buzziness/something else?

Would a flexible connection or a soft one to the handle dissipate more vibration?

Would the mass of the handle affect the feel of it? Is there a particular mass distribution that would matter? Would a lack of any mass besides the vibrator head be a positive? (If for example the rotation arrived through a flexible shaft)

Would the squishiness of the head surface affect anything? Edit: closer to the body's apparently transfers it better?

Any other stuff I miss?

I know I'm basically asking for a deep dive on vibrator engineering, but if anyone has answers, it'll be you guys.

I have a roughly 20x24 room that I want to turn into a play room, I want to sound proof it so I wont have to worry about waking the neighbors that live about 40 feet away. What would work the best but not cost me thousands of dollars. Thank you in advance.

I printed it from PETG for strength. I decided to use a spiked bead for a little more sting. Tho they are not sharp they are rounded off. The intention is to pull up on the bead and let the rubber bands do the work. I’ve got the rubber bands in the paddle with some dovetail type caps.

Any suggestions on how I could turn a corner of a room into a cage by adding some sort of floor to ceiling beams? It would have to be fairly easy to take down if needed, as I am renting my apartment. Gf and I like pet play, but want a vertical cage.

I build this sex machine with things that i could find and tools i had. Now considering that i am disable and have limited movement how can I improve it for better access

Btw its work in progress and this took me 3 years to build

Thanks in advance

I really love my MSA Advantage mask but the elastic straps from the factory looked a bit daggy flopping around - I'm sure there are neater ways to hide or tuck them like the good folks at Hexcorp and Reflective Desire do, but I want them to blend in with the latex of my hood.

I roughly copied the pattern from the existing 6-point harness but replaced the elastic with 1.5mm "Insertion Rubber" - I bought 25mm and 50mm, the straps needed to be skived down to 16mm/ 5/8" but that was pretty doable with a rotary cutter. I glued everything with Gorilla Rubber cement. The glue joints don't feel as strong as I would like, and the straps don't stretch very much so I've only glued loops on the top 4 connections and the bottom two I can pull tight to adjust the tension and they feel pretty good.

I might try and re-make this design in 0.8mm latex instead but for a first attempt at rubber crafting, I think it's a decent attempt. Has me wanting to make some harnesses, cuffs, and belts now.

Hello creativy kinky people of reddit,

while looking through the internet I just found the lovearc. According to the manufacturer it is a simple, silent, portable sex machine - sounds fun & good to me enough to think about how to build one of these for myself.

It's basically just an arc you can sit on. Depends on which side is up you can either ride it or use the handles to make this thing move and, let's call it what it is, f**k yourself. There are a couple of other ways of using it, you can check them out on their website if you want

How would you build the arc? Any good ways of bending strong metal into the arc shape? What about steaming wood and bending it into this shape? I watched some videos about it but maybe some of you creative people have some other ideas 🤗

I have made Locktober-themed board games, like dice or spin-a-bottle game. I used last year for the first time on me, this is going to be a second one!

Building a bench fitted to my body, not a generic adjustable one.

Use case:

• Chest on the center pad, knees and shins on the two rear pads, arms on the side pads
• Fully restrained. No movement is the point
• Heavy casters so my partner can roll me to the bed for oral, then rotate the whole bench 180°
• Two machines at the same time: a Fredorch F21S clamped to two 25×25 rails behind the hips, and a Venus 2000 hanging in the gap from four simple eye clamps
• Bottom plate is the parking spot for the Venus 2000. A drip tray is planned, not drawn yet
• Breaks down and goes into a closet

Frame:

• 40×40×1.5 mm steel square tube
• 25×25 mm rails for the F21S
• M8 through-bolts everywhere, 9 mm holes
• Cross bracing on the sides
• All joints are 3D printed PETG (2-way / 3-way / 4-way). Thick walls, 36 mm sockets for the 37 mm ID tube, about 0.5 mm clearance per side
• Same black PETG for the machine clamps. Steel bolt, captive nut in a 13.2 mm hex pocket, printed cap over it

What I want:

1. Are printed PETG corners with through-bolts enough on a 40×40 frame if someone is restrained on it for a long session and a thrusting machine is running on the rear rails?
2. The 25×25 rails are cantilevered. That is the part I’m least sure about. Clamp design is in the photos.
3. Anything you’d change before I commit to ~26 printed joints.

This is the prototype I will actually lie on. CAD attached. Be blunt.