Hello! I'm new to this community, and I recently got a BC-250 (I'm still waiting to receive it).

Today I stumbled upon this creator's video and, as you can see, it seems he has found an all-in-one tool for the setup. I don't know if this is good news or not!

I only have one question:

If I install this software with the stock BIOS — so, literally, just plug in the card, install Bazzite, and then apply this software — will it work, or will I still need the "modded" BIOS?

Thanks in advance!

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Hello guys,

Wanted to share my build with the community.

Running 2x Arctic P12 Pro 120mm fans, open-fin layout for airflow. Case is a light mod of this case on Thingverse — worked out really well.

Went with Bazzite after also trying official SteamOS for a bit — Bazzite just feels smoother overall on this hardware, so that's what I'm sticking with.

Total cost - included the PETG for print stayed under €300 (already had a spare SSD lying around, which helped).

Best part: my wife and daughter loved it, we've already had a few game nights together on it. Really happy with how this turned out.

I keep seeing these on AliExpress and wonder how easy it would be to knock up a water cooling set up, obviously all aluminium...

The barbs are only 7mm id, would that be enough for water cooling? And how big a rad do y'all recon would be enough? A thick 240 or a slim 360?

My main pc is water cooled, though it needs a total clean out which is why I bought some of these in the first place.. 😁 so I'm not a total noob... I need to measure out which bits need cooling too.. I know obvs the CPU and the ram on the back... Where else would benefit?

These all seem to be 40mm wide so I'm assuming that may work out too big for something's...

Anyone have a thermal camera image of one running without the heatsink on?

I had initially looked at some copper ones but they were a lot pricier... Like I could do the full aluminium set up for the price of one of them (from the one set I looked at.. 😁)

Thanks in advance for any help or ideas!

Note - I'm choosing to do water blocks cause I want to try something different, I know there's other tried and tested methods... I like to make my life difficult it seems... 🤣🤣

Still a work in progress. But after trouble sourcing a NexGen 3D case, I took matters into my own hands. Found these envelope ‘mini’ file cabinets for $5 a pop at a garage sale and immediately thought “wouldn’t it be cool to be able to pull out the drawer for tinkering maintenance then just shove it back in?”

I really like how it turned out, still plenty to do with it but it has a real vintage look I love.

Notable features/methods:
- I ended up cutting the stock heatsink into three pieces. Notably the centerpiece being an exact square. Since the four holes were in a square I could flip it to the back of the board and use it both as the rear mounting bracket for the AIO liquid cooling block and as an additional radiator. I think it made a big difference because my temps are golden. Didn’t get any great pics but it was a HACK JOB. Definitely room for future improvement but functionally it’s good enough,

- the extra mini file cabinet will lock onto the bottom of the case for a nice stand to keep it off the ground and extra accessory storage when desired

- I added a wood veneer to cover up some uneven cuts. Working with steel sheet metal like this is a pain so the I/O looks much cleaner in the back with the walnut I added.

- I used a 4.5 inch bimetal hole cutter which made the fan holes super clean and easy, even with the metal case.

Work left to do:
- Front I/O : works still have to file a bit more on the front usb ports for some thicker cables. I am also waiting on the usb 180’s to arrive for the front I/O hub and the internal fan controller.

- intake Fans: still can’t get the commander duo to work with cooler control or Open RGB, but I think the issue lies with the data adapter I am using. right now I’m running intake at 100% all the time. I want to put them on a curve based on vram temps using a mod I just found and base RGB off temps for monitoring. I also need to replace the rear white fan but it’s fine for now until I get the above figured out.

- veneer: I want to use the left over walnut to add some more trim for looks. Maybe some strips going along the bottom of the sides. might oil or stain the walnut too, looks a little dry. Haven’t looked into it.

Specs: working as good as a BC250 can. 40/40cu. 8 core unlock. Solid 60fps in Red Dead Redemption 2 at 1440p and high/ultra settings. Solid 144 fps on 1080p Doom Dark Ages at ultra nightmare settings.

Build sheet:
Basically everything in the NexGen3D. MSI A15 liquid cooler (don’t recommend, the block is huge and it’s a pain to design around). 1tb nvme Samsung m.2 (overkill I know, but it’s what I had). Commander duo pro fan controller. MOSFET.party power button board and micro fit power adapter.

—-
Bonus for people who read this far this scene was one of my main inspirations.

Good day, I thought I would post my BC250 build for those who don't have a 3d printer but still want a case of sorts.

Used an old slim pc case and got everything to fit, obvious modifications were required for air flow etc but I like how it turned out.

1 12cm artic p12 pro led on front with the usual centre heat sink cut out mod and another blowing onto the rear ram/cooling plate.

Hey everyone!

Finally, my case is at a stage where I can show it to people. All the major technical decisions have been worked out. What’s left is improving print quality, deciding on the final panel design, and a few other minor things.

I should mention, this case is not for everyone. It’s not designed for extreme overclocking, as it uses the stock heatsink and a single cooling fan. I can still use it with all cores unlocked and overclocked, but of course not as much as with water cooling. This case is mainly designed as a living room console.

From the beginning, I set myself a few strict requirements:

1. Strength — strong enough to safely transport in a backpack, luggage, or a car, with the BC250 securely mounted and protected
2. Factory-made look — no visible screws and a clean design that fits into pretty much any interior
3. Easy assembly and cable management
4. Minimum possible size — as compact as possible without compromising cooling performance and assembly ease

And I think I successfully achieved all of that!

Features:

1. Aluminum profile frame
2. Magnetically attached panels with the option to secure them with screws
3. Built-in FSP500 PSU
4. Built-in PSU control board
5. Built-in fan splitters
6. Built-in microfit power connectors - the BC250 plugs directly into the case, similar to how you install a graphics card in a PC
7. Accessory interface — allows connecting future additions such as a gamepad power-on adapter, lighting, and other accessories
8. Dedicated memory cooling fan — this turned out to be the best RAM cooling solution in terms of cost, cooling performance, and effort. The fan is cheap, runs silently because my control board reduces its speed to the minimum, and doesn’t require gluing heatsinks
9. High manufacturing quality — I’ve been doing 3D printing and manufacturing for about 11 years, using custom-built printers that allow me to get really nice results

More details soon!

You can also join my Discord to keep updated!

In case you missed my previous posts: 1 2 3 4 5 6

Hello, I've just booted the bc after a long wait.
I know that the build-in bios isnt fit/optimized.

What BIOS should I use instead?

Hey guys, looking for some help with a BC-250 that has never POSTed since I got it.

It powers on and stays on, fan runs and the APU/heatsink warms up, but I get no DisplayPort output and the keyboard doesn't initialise (Caps Lock won't toggle).

So far I've tried:

Multiple monitors and DP cables

Bare boot: no NVMe, just power + fan + DP + wired keyboard

New CR2032 and multiple CMOS clears

Checked the clear-CMOS/power-on jumpers

Externally flashed the BIOS using a Raspberry Pi Zero through J4004

Made two identical 16MB backups first

Completely erased/wrote known-good stock P3.00

Flashrom finished with VERIFIED

Did another proper CMOS clear after flashing

Absolutely no change after the BIOS flash. Still powers up and stays running, but no display and no keyboard response.

PSU is a be quiet! Pure Power 11 500W using its native PCIe 6+2 cable.

I've seen Q11 mentioned as a possible no-POST issue and I'm checking that next.

Has anyone had one behave exactly like this even after a successful external BIOS reflash? What would you check next — Q11, power rails, Super I/O/reset sequencing, RAM, something else?

I've seen so many people implement this via third party boards. There's a person on the discord who figured out how to solder it without any additional board or anything:

https://discord.com/channels/1315924807128449065/1487195272751747222

Saves space and money if you are able to solder it.

(Please note that this wasn't discovered by me, all credit goes to @iamdarkyoshi on discord)

Does anyone know of an altnernative to mosfet.party board to turn on the FSP power supply and have it react to system shutdown? I feel bad spending more than the cost of the PSU on a controller chip.

I am doing some testing with the JF13K heatsink/fan on the BC250.

I added some aluminum heatsinks to the VRM's and other IC chips that originally had thermal pads on them from the stock heatsink.

If I stress just the GPU with Furmark, it runs fine at 2000MHz and around 60C with low fan speeds.

If I run the `stress` command and stress just the CPU, no issues either.

If I run both simultaneously, even with fans at 100%, it eventually drops CPU clock to 571MHz. Even with fans at 100% it still does it. I know this is a worse case scenario, but it didn't do this with the stock heatsink.

Is this due to poor cooling of the VRM's? Any recommendations on alternatives to these little aluminum heatsinks? Or is this something else entirely?

In Tempe, AZ. He’s got an actual mining rig with 12 of them. 🐸

https://www.facebook.com/share/1C2maetsQo/?mibextid=wwXIfr

P.S. I already have 2, third one incoming. I think that’s kinda enough for me. 😂

Looking to get some replacement screws for my heatsink. Anybody have a link to some or at least the measurements? Nothing in my stock seems to match quite right.

I am working on my first BC-250 build and trying to sort out extra power delivery, as I plan to unlock all GPU and CPU cores as well as overclock (and swap out the cooler). I am confused about how to get to supply power to the microfit connectors. I bought an FSP500 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/389522369783) and am trying to figure out what plugs in where, especially with possibly purchasing the MODDIY adapter (https://www.moddiy.com/products/6837/Standard-8-Pin-EPS12V-to-2-x-MicroFit-8-Pin-Cable-for-ASRock-BC250.html).

So I am plugging in the 8 pin power connector into the PCIe power connector, and then the EPS connector into the MODDIY product? Want to make sure before I purchase the MODDIY solution.

Hi I’m currently experimenting with community mod FSR4 for BC250 a.k.a FSR4 (i24). Tested on Motogp 2026 @ 1440p resolution.

Previously I run the game using an in game TSR at Quality setting and temperature hover around 73-75°C.

Now after switching to DLSS Ultra Quality setting (inject FSR4 via Optiscaler). My temperature went down to 63-65°C. And sometimes going as low as 59°C.

That’s a massive improvement on computational load. My question is, is this an expected behavior?

(Edit) Forgot to mention that I also install modded Mesa driver independently as I’m using Bazzite (immutable)

It was a really cool adventure :)

I used old profiles from 3D-printer and some quiet fans. The rest of the setup includes an AXP120-X67 and an HP 460W HSTNS-PD28 power supply. With 38CU unlocked, the temperature in FurMark at 2100 MHz doesn’t exceed 75°C, and it’s not noisy.

A small OLED screen connected to the power supply displays the load.

I'll remember this project for a very long time, it was pure pleasure guys.

I have a Glowforge and I wished I had bought a 3D printer instead. However I have clear thick acrylic sheets from projects I never did that I could end up building a case for the bc-250.

I gave AI some guidance on what I wanted.

Xbox series x design frame.
Xbox 360 slim halo edition “inspired look”.

I don’t know if I’ll be able to achieve this but this looks kinda cool to me.

Hey everyone,

I've recently purchased all the parts for my BC250 build but just wanted to ensure I was understanding how I'll be setting up the PSU.

I've watched Old Lamer's video regarding making microfit connectors and I've decided I'm going to solder my own. However, during his video he never explained which PSU cables to cut/solder. I've never done anything like this before, can I confirm I would just be matching the following colors. Green to green, Magenta to Magenta when I make my own connectors?

Already aware the 10 pin will be used for the power button and the 6+2 will power the BC250. Many thanks!

So, as I posted before, my BC-250 decided to stop POSTing for me. I tried the "check Caps Lock" trick and it failed. I did all the CMOS tricks and clearing, but no POST. I'm pretty sure the BIOS needs to be reprogrammed.

I got a CH347 and finally got the drivers to work in Windows. I'm using the V2.21 Programmer by Shichang Zhuo and my computer finds the programmer without any problems and has a nice green light. However, when I clip it onto my board (I'm no where near comfortable enough to remove the BIOS chip and, more importantly, put it back on), a red LED shines and my device manager loses the connection.

I'm pretty sure I've got the clip installed correctly, but I did try switching things around, just in case, but the same red LED result. I'll attach pictures.

The moment I unclip, the green LED turns on and my device manager finds the device.

I've tried with and without the CMOS battery (just in case). Google implies I should hook it up to a power supply and try again (without it actually powering on, obviously), but that seems risky and I trust humans before Google.

I just wrapped up my BC250 - DIY Steam Machine build and in that process I found myself wanting a more detailed 3d model of the BC250.

I design pretty much every project I build and so I undertook a couple days of work to create a more detailed model of the BC250. It isn't just the board footprint and hole spacing, but also includes a lot of the critical SMD components, the APU, heck even the heat pipes in the heatsink.

I'm not claiming this is a 1:1 recreation of the BC250, but it is the most detailed and complete model I could find, by far, and I was able to design a cooler mount, entire case, and a few other things based off of this.

It is up for Free on my Printables page if anyone wants to use it for their own designs, just please note the license and don't go reposting it random places: https://www.printables.com/model/1828755-asrock-bc250-complete-ish-cad-model

Hope it is ok to link to my own work, I know Sub-Reddits get weird about that sometimes.

Hi, can someone please share the 3d print for the cpu bracket ?? I can’t find it anywhere for some reason.

Thanks !

I'm aware that there is a chance I've done this whilst opening up the fins but I thought I'd check because the clamping pressure I used in my wooden workbench was minimal and I wouldn't have thought it would bend 2mm plate that easily but then again I'm not sure the quality of the steel would have been very good.

Worst case scenario I've borked my cooler and I can skip straight to finding something better.

Hi everyone,

I bought a BC-250 a few years ago for around $60, and it has been sitting unused ever since. Yesterday, I decided to try it again, and to my surprise, it still boots into HiveOS.

However, I have a strange problem: the BC-250 will only boot if nothing is connected to the USB ports.

If I turn it on with a keyboard, mouse, USB drive, or external HDD already connected, it never gives any video signal. The system powers on, gets warm, and the fans/devices seem to be running, but it never displays anything or finishes booting.

I have already tried connecting the keyboard and mouse one at a time, and the result is the same. As soon as any USB device is connected during startup, it does not boot.

The strange part is that if I start the BC-250 with everything disconnected and wait for HiveOS to load, I can then connect the keyboard, mouse, and external HDD without any problems.

I cannot really use it like this. I have seen other people with BC-250 boards boot directly into Linux and access the BIOS, but I have not been able to do that.

Has anyone experienced this issue or knows what could be causing it? Any ideas on how I can access the BIOS or fix the USB boot problem?

I am sadly from a region where pc part prices are really expensive and i saw that the amd bc250 is a very good budget option for a gaming pc, but i wanted to know how good is it for general purposes like coding, i don´t have the most technical or linux-related knowledge but i really have the resilience needed for the troubleshooting i saw it is really needed.

edit: i would use the PC in gaming too, but i would still need the pc for some day to day use.

Ive been checking eBay from time to time and the price seems to have dropped again after the hype from Linus Tech Tips mostly fizzled out. Of course its nowhere near the £110 I got mine for 2 weeks ago. Still cheaper than an actual PC with the same specs, the whole thing costs less than a gpu.