Had a magnetic student-driver sign on the rear liftgate on a Honda Odyssey and Cadillac Lyriq: which have plastic bumpers, that's now stuck completely flat and won't come off. It's not lifting at any edge and as I try to peel/scrape it, the top printed layer is tearing off in patches, leaving the reflective hexagon backing layer still fully bonded to the plastic.

What I've tried:

• Goo Gone Automotive (tested hidden spot first), soaked 10-30 min, multiple rounds
• Heat (hairdryer, low, moving) + Goo Gone combo
• Plastic scraper (hard PVC card), low angle, kept wet
• Fingernails — top layer shreds/tears, rest stays flat and stuck

Here is the amazon link to the product: https://a.co/d/06stD8W4 and images of what it looks like rn.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Found a 2015 q50 for a wondering how bad the hit is and if it’s an easy fix

2014 Porsche 981, how bad does this scrape on my rear bumper side of my car look? I've had PPF wrapped over the car.

Just found it at home after a trip to the grocery store, crossing my fingers it wasn't due to the fault of a 2nd party..perhaps just a sharp foreign object flinged at my car while driving. What do y’all think caused it?

My roommate smoked a deer in my car and we couldn't afford to not do it ourselves. Well..he didn't help. I replaced the Grille myself and enlisted the help of my brother ,who paints aircraft, for the paint job. With his knowledge and Google I got the right paint code, got some clear coat, tools and whatnot. We do the job and as you can see it looks worse than it did before. What's wrong? I can't try again soon but we're very interested in learning and getting it right.

So what's wrong?

Paint Code LX7R: Monsoon Grey

P.s. I put a before photo at the end

Is the only way to make this better a total repaint or can I get away with just clearcoat? 2005 model but everywhere else is mint minus these two areas

I saw an ad on instagram for a shop that offered the three and it was about 1800 plus 385 for wheels + windows. they called me to see if i wanted to book an appointment before booking i wanted to know if the paint correction was for the whole car because my car had light scratches and if they were unable to fix it i would take it to the dealership so they can fix the. The guy advised me not to and said they would take care of it. I got my car back the swirl marks and scratches were still on the body of the car where they applied the ceramic coating so I complained and they told me they only do a paint correction on the ppf panels & they don’t recommend doing a paint correction on non ppf panels. Then it rained a couple of days after and I noticed that the ceramic coating wasn’t working as it’s supposed to I messaged them asking about a 1,100 refund they said they were confused as to why i wanted a refund on something complementary but in the messages before that they said promotion includes -“full car ceramic coating, and i paid for wheels+ windows”. which means in that 1800 the ceramic was already included.

They then said that california law and my signed invoice both state that they are entitled to an inspect the vehicle before any refund or warranty and if i try to file for a dispute they will submit a signed invoice with my vin and license plate to collections, file a lawsuit for unjust enrichment and failure to allow contractual remedy, and report the dispute to the dmv as a mechanics lien matter.

I asked for the documents and they said i have to go pick them up in person because that’s what they require i then asked if they have a contract stating that any original copies will need to be picked up in person they replied with they’d be more than happy to accommodate me to stop by and pick them up at the shop.

With that being said I want to know if this business can actually do something when i do dispute this as a service as not described

Hey guys so i'm in a dilemma on the subframe do i need to change whole of it or just the parts as you can see ln the video rusted?

is this normal on ppf

I recently took the old decals off my calipers and put new ones on and clear coated over the decal area with a high temp clear coat. Brake dust is sticking to the cleared areas. Any suggestions how to get this off or am I screwed and have to start over ?

In the process of reconditioning a 4Runner for re-sale. Looking for options for bumper repair. I'd like to maximize my DIY contributions to the project, but I know my limits at finishing and paintwork.

Does this crack look repairable by plastic welding? Or is replacement the only option?

Trying to determine the best approach with local body shops. I'd intent to remove and reinstall the bumper cover myself. If I do need to replace, I'd likely source my own used bumper cover and keep the body shop work to just paint. I might consider learning to plastic weld, though I'm not sure.

I believe there are services which can spot-repair bumper covers, though I haven't found one locally in my area. Any tips on searching one out?

Thanks.

I’m from Texas man idk what’s normal and what’s bad in terms of rust.

Grabbed this $500 2991 Ford Ranger. (2WD, AT, 3L V6) as a project. Got the bed off so I can change the fuel tank out a bit easier.

Took some pictures while I had it off. What do yall think? Surface rust or am I cooked. Doesn’t seem to have any real rot in any of the factory cut holes.

Also and advice on how to treat what’s there would be rad.

Thanks for your time.

After being quoted $800, I was thinking of DYIingwith with sanding and filler after studying YouTube clips. However, I just realized maybe that gash may be filler vs. paint coat and the rust may be more widespread? How bad do you think the rusg will be underneath? Bigger than a 3 inch hole?

Since my last post I’ve spent maybe 4-5 hours sanding this car down and this white paint that is on it is super dull and thick paint, my DA can’t seem to get through it, first I tried 80 grit then did some research and saw that people say you could use 40 grit without worrying about taking off too much material with it. Tried that, didn’t work much better than the 80 grit so I’m kind of stuck on what I can do to get this paint off so I can start fresh from bare metal to fix the 4/5 paint jobs this car has had in the past.
Thank you so much for everyone’s advice on my last post and any advice you can leave on this post!
Happy Labor Day!!

Going to be looking for some body shops today. How large can I expect this job to be, multi day, same day? This is my first ever severe dent so I don’t really know how serious this is. (Excuse me for not washing my car, my bad 🥲)

Scratched the side of my front bumper while pulling into my usual parking spot today, pure stupidity. Do you think this would be just a paint job or will it need part replacements? What kind of damage am I looking at? Also, does insurance need to be involved here, since this was not a collision?

Vehicle is a 2025 Mazda 3 sedan.

I am in desperate need of advice on how to move forward. This is my first time painting a car.

Hey folks, I’m trying to get into paint and bodywork a bit, painting a few small parts, as practice for restoring my old Integra a few years down the road. I have this original OEM Optional front lip on the car, which is pretty beat up. But it’s fairly rare and fits the bumper perfect, so I want to save it. Problem is that this thing has many old layers of paint on it. I’m concerned with machine sanding and damaging some of the contour lines around the side of the lip. I’m guessing I don’t need to get ALL the old paint off, but I would like to get the thicker parts knocked down so there’s not as much filler needed.

Is there any sort of chemical stripper that works on plastic parts? i believe it is ABS plastic but I’m not 100% certain. I know the car has other plastic pieces that are ABS. Any suggestions are appreciated.

This is actually on a vehicle at a dealer I’m considering purchasing. Looking for advice on how safe it is to remove and if there will be lasting damage possibly? Weighing out negotiating to have the dealer try to remove it before purchase, or using it was a negotiating piece and doing it myself as I may actually be more careful than they will be. Not sure what it’s from, but it’s on both sides of the hood and adhered pretty hard to a finger nail test. Almost as hard as a hardened candy.

Edit: Just stumbled upon what I would assume to be a culprit as an aftermarket hood vent attaches here with 3M VHB which is advertised as mostly permanent.