Printing at .9mm layer height, and I used ripple noise and turned it up to 30 ripples per layer. Slowed it down to 10mm/s so the outer walls would look sharp, I honestly didn’t expect it to turn out so close to the slicer preview.

This is a lighter cover I just did because it’s simple geometry and fast to print. Ripple noise doesn’t seem to do as well on complex geometry but i’ll definitely be messing with it some more to see what else it looks good on.

(also the seams/retraction are definitely a bit off since you can see it doesn’t complete a full loop on the inside, but i’ll get that tuned out tomorrow and the outer wall looked good anyway)

Reposting cuz I broke the rules

Hello all!

I just wanted to share a little about my 3d printed plane that has been in the works for a little over a year.

Once I am finished with the design, I plan on open-sourcing everything and releasing the .stp files for the models and .3mf files for anyone to print their own plane. I also plan on releasing the native CAD models if anyone wants to change anything or use it as a base to design their own.

I designed the plane to survive crashes by placing mechanical fuses (weak points) between the main components so that they break rather than the rest of the plane.

Here is my YouTube video showing the entire process so far, and thanks to anyone who checks it out! Preliminary models & print files are available on my free Patreon as well.

https://youtu.be/UJHO5yd7VU0

I originally built the plane using a combination of Overture Air PLA, regular PLA, TPU for the hinges, and carbon-fiber nylon for the aft tube.

The fuses are simply connecting spars that neck down between the wings. I tested the fuses by throwing the plane at the ground and seeing what broke. I ended up using a wall/infill modifier around the weak points in the wings, and then the fuses consistently broke during my rudimentary testing.

I originally used TPU 95A for the hinges, which worked, but when trying to fly in the cold winter, they became too stiff for the servos to move. I ended up switching to TPU Air, which is a lightweight foaming TPU that allows you to adjust the durometer (softness) based on the temperature.

The plane is controlled by a SpeedyBee F405 Wing Mini as the flight control board, which can be custom configured using INAV to adjust servo control, automatic return-to-home, and quite a lot of custom programming.

The original plane was printed primarily out of Overture Air PLA and was pretty heavy for an RC plane at 1.8 kg (4 lb). But based on my initial calculations and measurements of the CG, I thought it would fly with a strong hand launch.

I was very wrong... twice.

I crashed the initial design twice. The first time, I threw it at a steep angle and it immediately dipped left and crashed. The second time, I threw it level over a small embankment and still wasn't able to get enough speed to get off the ground.

I am currently building the next revision. I have since realized that the Air PLA was not lightweight enough (78% of PLA) and is actually still pretty heavy compared to other LW-PLA filaments (as low as 47% of PLA). Air PLA was a pre-foamed filament, and I've been experimenting with SainSmart LW-PLA, which is actively foamed during printing, and much lighter weight, and I've been getting pretty good results so far. I should be able to drop 0.68 kg (1.5 lb) from the overall weight of the plane, but I still have a lot of testing to do.

Disclaimer: I knew very little about RC planes when I started this project, and I've learned a lot along the way.

Please let me know your thoughts, questions, and/or any feedback you have!

Also my first experience with PLA wood filament. Went smoothly.

All of the pieces are attached either by buckle or Velcro to a custom harness I stitched together. Files from Galactic Armory

As the title says. Printed on an Ender 3 Max.

Sometimes you just gotta learn the hard way

5% infill.

Rinse with water fill and drain.

Inject with big gap filler from Home Depot.

.

Next up is rubber sole, but this feels like the proper approach, cushion-wise. Both shoes for 850 grams filament.

I challenge anyone to print a good looking Spiderman poster (smaller 12x18" size) in a faster single printer time.

88h 07m 43s! (3 and 2/3rds days)

I love the separate textures on the red and blue sections! This was all at 0.16mm layer height (with a bit of VLH on the top of his head), 5-10% gyroid infill, and 2 walls. Used Support PLA as a dedicated support interface material. It took me a weeks worth of evenings to touch up the painting in the slicer, reorient objects, and I replaced all of the support painting myself. I meant to post this a week ago, but work has been on fire. Now if only I were better at gluing!

Wish Reddit would let me post both pictures and videos together. Here's a 4K video of the final product: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJUKpuQrq7E but I don't have this awesome video of my "U1 go brr!" doing these spiderman legs there yet.

This was done on my single Snapmaker U1 with my following reduced set of high speed settings below (try at your own risk) I also recommend plugging the printer.cfg values in manually, as the 247printing config file was missing several important looking lines at the top (probably from a firmware update). I do love the high speed toolhead changes in the printer.cfg file most of all.

printer.cfg file:
max_velocity: 800 (some units can only achieve 700)
fast_move_speed: 650 (on all 4 extruders)
grab_speed: 40 (on all 4 extruders)
switch accel: 20000 (on all 4 extruders)

Slicer Printer Extruder 1-4:
retraction length: 0.6
retraction speed: 60
deretraction speed: 60
wipe while retracting: no
z-hop height 0.2

Slicer Printer Motion Ability:
maximum speed X: 800
maximum speed Y: 800
maximum speed E: 60
maximum jerk X: 30
maximum jerk Y: 30

Slicer Process Strength:
minimum sparse infill threshold: 7.5

Slicer Process Speed:
sparse infill: 300
support: 200
travel: 800
Acceleration:
normal printing: 20000
sparse infill: 75%
internal solid infill: 75%
travel: 20000
Jerk:
default: 30
inner wall: 20
infill: 25
travel: 30

Slicer Multimaterial:
max wipe tower speed: 150

one of these setup flats on the shops

Built the closet when I only had 100 rolls rebuilding it next weekend twice as big.

Just an interesting demonstration of why PLA isn't great.

2 different battery holders, the DeWalt one was printed using PETG-CF, the near one with Einhell batteries was printed in PLA.

These were both mounted in a hot van for 3 months. The PLA had warped and sagged.

Just baking some fresh silica cookies... like my Oma did

But fun aside (I'm German, fun is a serious matter here):

these tins are actually decent for regenerating silica on the heated bed in a pinch. The metal distributes the heat well, and you can give it a little shake ever so often.

To get the moisture out:

• Bed temperature: 100°C for ~30 minutes.
• Chamber heater: 60°C.

This is the second run today because I only want to dry a single layer of silica beads at a time to ensure even and effective drying. Works like a charm! Just be careful not to damage the PEO/PET plates if you run them that hot for a long time.

After experimenting with veneer lamps that reveal underlying patterns, I decided to try to implement some parquetry to make the outside more interesting as well.

These are done with cherry veneer taped into patterns and then glued to patterned cases I designed and printed.

The two in the front are using a Kumiko pattern, Asanoha, and a ceramic pattern from Puglia. Others I’ve done use American quilting patterns.

After gluing them up I lightly sand them and then finish them with Osmo Oil.

I was tired of constantly refilling my Keurig reservoir, so looked into ways to have it auto refill. Turns out, a float valve designed for aquariums works perfectly for this! I tied into my refrigerator's water line with a T-junction, 3D printed a Keurig topper for the water reservoir to hold the float valve (on a diagonal to maximize float travel, and it... worked perfectly!

I've had this running for over 2 weeks now with no leaks. Overall has made dealing with my Keurig nearly completely autonomous!

MakerWorld link (included parts for float valve): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3270611-keurig-k-supreme-auto-refill-topper