r/FordExplorer • u/RedWhiteAndJew • Jan 23 '26
Hello Explorer owners and fans! We are now in week 2 of our new moderation team. Below are the new subreddit rules we've developed. These have been posted on the sidebar for a few days now. We have not yet removed content based on these new rules, other than those that already applied to Reddit sitewide. So, we don't believe these will change much in terms of the content and discussion we already enjoy. This is more about setting expectations that weren't really there under the previously absent moderation team. Without further ado:
Rules
Follow Reddiquette - Many of our rules are from the reddiquette. Any violation of the reddiquette can be removed by the moderators, especially ones included here.
No personal attacks, bigotry, or harassment - You may strongly disagree with others, but you may not attack them personally. Bigotry or Hate Speech based on race, gender, sexual orientation, religion, age, etc. will be removed.
Spam/self-promotion - You may post your blog posts, articles, videos, photographs, etc that you have written or created, but that should not be the only thing you do here. You should also participate in discussions (on your posts or others). Dealer/vendor posts are at moderator discretion.
Illegal, sleazy, or dangerous activity - Any posts or comments with illegal or dangerous content will be removed.
Uncivil political discussion - Civil political discussion is allowed as long as it pertains to the automotive industry. Political trolling, flame baiting, slurs, off-topic politics, and harassment will be removed, especially if it violates Rule 2.
No AI Content - Posts containing AI-generated text, images, or videos are not permitted.
Moderator discretion - Any post or comment may be removed by a moderator even if it does not explicitly violate a rule listed here.
Now, as I've said before we're becoming more familiar with our roles and the moderator tools, so we are going to try these out for a while. If we end up needing to add, removed, or modify any of these we will make a sticky post letting everyone know what we've done.
Ultimately our goal here is to foster a friendly, helpful, and productive community. So please help us do that by adhering to the rules and reporting content that you feel breaks them. Likewise, if you feel content was removed unfairly, please send us a message through ModMail so we can review it. For the most part we'll simply be removing content, but for habitual line-steppers, we'll be utilizing the ban function based on the severity of the discretion.
If you'd like to provide feedback on these rules, please do so here! No ideas will be ignored. This is also your chance to ask for clarification on any of these rules, we will not take it personally.
Thank you and happy Exploring!
r/FordExplorer • u/RedWhiteAndJew • 11d ago
First off, all credit for the content of this post goes to /u/nocommittee1477, a Ford Certified Master Technician of 10 years. He gave me permission to make a post out of his content. I cannot answer your questions myself, so use this as a starting point. He generously spent the time to type this out in his free time so please be respectful of that and use this as a starting point.
These instructions should apply to any Fifth Generation Explorer or PIU with the 3.5L NA, 3.5L EcoBoost, or 3.7L NA. These may also be helpful for other models including Taurus and Flex that use a Cyclone or Ecoboost in a transverse configuration. If yours has the 2.0L, 2.3L or was produced beginning in 2020, this will not apply to you.
3.5/3.7 (for the Lincoln people) water pump/timing chain replacement procedure:
Raise vehicle enough to drain oil, reinstall drain plug finger tight (you'll be draining it again). Remove right front tire and inner fender well. Remove air intake hose, air box lid can stay or go as your preference. Remove the evap vapor line from the purge valve and the hard vapor line at the RF strut tower. Remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and the supply line at the RF strut tower (there is also an 8mm head bolt securing the fuel line to the timing cover). Remove the upper intake manifold, aka plenum (note there is a single 8mm head bolt securing the upper intake to a bracket that is semi-hidden under/behind the throttle body). Remove all 6 ignition coils, then LH and RH valve covers. Remove the oil feed rails and intake VCT solenoids (inboard on both heads).
Rotate the engine clockwise until both intake cam phasers are at 12 o'clock, install cam locks (you may have to slightly rock the cams with a wrench to get the locks to fully seat, this is normal). Drain and remove the degas bottle and hose. Remove the belt and belt tensioner (belt is easiest removed from the bottom, tensioner from the top). Remove the crankshaft bolt and pulley (a 3 jaw puller or 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller will work). Using your floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan, jack up the engine to relieve tension on the engine mount, remove the engine mount. Remove all the bolts attaching the timing cover to the engine (don't forget the recessed 8mm head bolt adjacent to where the engine mount was), raising and lowering the engine as needed to get all the bolts out. Gently pry the timing cover free (it's RTV siliconed into place) and remove from the top (some people will recover the refrigerant and remove the AC line, but the job can be 100% done without it, the AC line is aluminum and will flex out of the way enough without damage). With the timing cover off you can inspect all your timing marks, primary chain and primary tensioner. Your timing marks are single dots located on each intake cam phaser and the crank sprocket. Their positions should be as stated, cams at 12 o'clock, crank at approximately 430. The primary timing chain should have colored links to match those timing dots on the sprockets. Two single links to match each cam and one double link to straddle the crank. If you cannot see the colored links, it's arts and crafts time! Mark each single link over the top of the cams and the double link straddling the crank. Inspect the primary timing chain tensioner, there are two different designs, but the rule is the same for both. There are teeth that mechanically lock the tensioner out, if 5 or more teeth are exposed, the primary timing chain is stretched and will require replacement.
After you've done your inspections and had your arts and crafts time if required, remove the primary chain tensioner, primary tensioner shoe (it's on a pivot), the long primary guide on the front side of the engine, and the short primary guide on the front side. Remove the timing chain (you have to twist it slightly to clear around the phasers). Use an 8mm wrench and reach in behind the Bank 1 (rear cylinder head) intake phaser and loosen, not remove the bolt holding the other short guide. Once you've loosened it and can pull the guide forward, stop.
Remove all the water pump bolts and slowly pull the water pump from the block, I say slowly because you are trying to allow the coolant remaining to drain into the oil pan and not sploosh all over the floor and make a huge mess. Once you're not draining coolant remove the water pump out from around the guide you left and reverse process to reinstall the new pump. To reset the timing tensioner, you'll need either a small straight pick or needle nose pliers, a paperclip, and a vise. The early design tensioners had a separate arm with the locking teeth, to unlock use the pick to disengage the mechanism and squish the tensioner closed with a vise, once completely squished, install the paperclip to keep the tensioner collapsed. The second design tensioners have the teeth made onto the plunger itself. To unlock it, squeeze the lock with needle nose while squishing in the vise, again locking it collapsed with a paperclip. Reinstall the short guide, long guide and the timing chain, placing the marked links to match with the dots, keep all slack on the chain on the tensioner side of the assembly. Install the tensioner shoe and primary tensioner. Before pulling the pin verify all timing marks on both the chain and the sprockets match. As additional verification, there should be 48 links between each intake cam phaser and 35 links between the Bank 2 (front) phaser and the crank. If everything looks good, remove the pin from the tensioner and gently pry the tensioner out a little more to ensure good tension on the timing chain (oil pressure will do the rest once the engine is running).
Remove the cam locks and rotate the crank 2 revolutions until all your timing marks are back at the 12 and 430 positions. Verify timing by counting the links between positions, 48 between cams, 35 between Bank 2 and crank. As long as everything is ok, you won't need the cam locks again. If not, reinstall the cam locks, remove the tensioner, and retimed the engine until correct. Clean all the silicone from the block and timing cover, remove and replace the crank seal. Apply RTV to the timing cover and along the rear of the block as during installation you'll likely smear some off the timing cover (optionally you can apply all the silicone to the block side of things if you so desire). Reinstall all your timing cover bolts. Reinstall the engine mount and remove your jack from the engine. Drain the coolant out of the oil pan. The crank pulley can be reinstalled with a block of wood, a hammer, and dirty words, or you can purchase a crank pulley installer tool to press it back onto the crank. The pulley is fully seated when there is approximately a 1/8" gap between the end of the crank and the end of the pulley. Replace the crank bolt with a new one! Torque the new crank bolt to 74ft-lbs plus 90 degrees (its torque to yield, and therefore, one time use). From there you reinstall all remaining removed parts. Refill the engine with oil, change the oil filter and I initially fill the cooling system.
Cycle the key on (do not crank) to prime the fuel system and check for fuel leaks. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (this places the engine in clear-flood mode and will not fire the fuel injectors) and crank the engine over for 15ish seconds to rebuild oil pressure. Afterwards, start the engine normally, bleed any remaining air from the cooling system and check for leaks.
If you want to replace your cam phasers, secondary chains, and secondary tensioners, you'll remove the phasers with a TP55 (Torx Plus, but a standard T55 will fit just sloppily). The secondary tensioners are pushed into their notes and have no hardware to secure them. The phaser bolts are one-time use as they torque to 33ft-lb plus 90 degrees. The phasers are keyed to the cams and have timing marks that match to the secondary chains to ensure proper cam-to-cam timing. New secondary tensioners will stay collapsed until they are pushed fully in and released after being replaced, it's easiest to unlock them with a smack with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer after you've got your phasers and secondary chains reinstalled.
I hope this helps anyone that wants to tackle this one on their own. If you have any questions, by all means ask!
I would like this post to become a central hub for any owners considering performing this repair by themselves, and also to give insight to any owners that want to understand what their repair shop is doing.
r/FordExplorer • u/terminal_nervoso • 14h ago
My truck (so named for my grandma) was garaged since 1994 when she bought it new, and now that it’s mine, it will remain garaged!
r/FordExplorer • u/dickbeater94 • 13h ago
Buffy 2.0
I need some ideas to make it mine. Exterior *
Beautiful vehicle. interior and exterior
r/FordExplorer • u/nodakskip • 2h ago
My mother got a new 2026 Ford Explorer Platinum, not sure what the trim or engine is. I have not seen the window sticker from it to see what all the features their new SUV has yet.
Anyway one thing I had a question on is the second row seats. Its two single chairs with nothing in the middle. The third row is bench style seat. My mom tried to put all the seats down to haul something in the back. Third row went down easy, the second row not so much.
The second row is on metal tracks with a metal bar in the base front of it. This allows the seat to move up or down. One went fine, the other side did not. After looking over the manual I saw the middle seats have electric switches on the top of the seats that allow them to be raise up to let people out of the third row. I tried switch and it sounded like it was going, but when I had her start the car the seat easily moved then slid back with hardly any force after it wouldn't before.
I am guessing the seat was in the "up" position when the car was shut off. So I assume if the middle seat is like that when shut off it has to be on again to put the seat fully down so it can slide up and down the track? The middle seat was all the way up to the front passenger seat before the car was started.
Second question. I saw news reports last year about some SUVs that have third row seats that will fold down with an electric motor. And if something is in that seat when it starts the motor will keep going. The news said a little kid was in the seat when the button was hit. I think it was a Hyundai, and not a Ford. But does the Ford Escapes have third row seats like that?
I am guessing these are easy questions, but I am the guy she calls if she needs help with something tech wise on cars. I just have a 2016 Ford Escape myself.
r/FordExplorer • u/Due-Map-1662 • 5h ago
2014 ford explorer 230k miles
r/FordExplorer • u/ArgumentMountain7474 • 19h ago
I used forscan and an obd adapter to change some values in the APIM module. Instead of the old oval resetting back after trying to edit the theme using the 2 button shortcut, it’s permanent. It’s beautiful now, I genuinely love my Explorer so much more.
The forscan tool is a pro plan but it’s free for 2 months which is what I did. The key gets sent to you on the same website you apply on within 20-30 mins.
r/FordExplorer • u/toyotapickup1986 • 13h ago
Lately I have been having major shuddering issues on our 2017 explorer sport with the 3.5 EB... we bought it used with 120k with no issues... around 125k I drained the transmission (complete flush) along with the ptu oil change. Both fluids looked dirty but nothing concerning.. (smelled fine, no metallic, just dirty). Drove it up until 138ish until it started running poorly along with horrible mileage. I ended up changing the spark plugs & boots which fixed the problem (3 of 6 plugs had ceramic cracked). Now fast forward to a week ago at 140k miles, we left from Wisconsin to Tennessee for our vacation, vehicle ran perfect until we really started working it coming through the mountains, it has a HORRIBLE shudder around 65-75 mph when accelerating. While coasting the problem goes away, but once accelerating it shakes so bad the steering wheel shakes along with what feels like the entire front end. My first thought was the transmission is on the way out, HOWEVER it pulls great, shifts perfect, and has NO shudder under 60mph, only 60 and up. My second thought was coil packs, HOVEVER it idles great and we got on average 24 mpg from WI to TN (until we got into mountains then mpg dropped). We put just over 3k miles on it while on vacation, and it hasn't got better or worse, just the same consistent problem. But Here's where I get confused and need everyone's thoughts or opinions... when i shift into sport mode, the shudder gets MUCH better, it still has a shudder but not nearly as bad. Now I know when shifting into sport, it changes the transmission tuning along with pressures and shift points, as well as the engine ecu, timing, ect.... I've looked online and only find tsb's on the 2.3, not the 3.5eb. Im wondering if there is a "common explorer problem" that maybe im missing thats an easy fix or something simple im missing. If anyone has any help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!!!
r/FordExplorer • u/93_ffr • 15h ago
Does anyone know what this noise could possibly be? Did pretty much entire front end(tie rods, sway bar links, control arms, shocks) new tires all around (back right has actually begun leaking slowly which has been a concern), new cv axle on the driver side as well but its sitting snug. Got squeaky brakes on the front drivers side, im also sometimes hearing an high/low pitched hum past 40 mph but no vibration to go along with it which leads me to suspect maybe wheel bearing? The noise completely goes away after about 25 mph and barely changes in tone when turning. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
(1997 Ford explorer 5.0 AWD)
r/FordExplorer • u/ArgumentMountain7474 • 1d ago
It was definitely not a pretty process to get the upgrade done but overall Installation was pretty simple except for one stuck wire, which I had to use some weird manoeuvring skills to get a wire unplugged. But compared to Sync 2 the Sync 3 upgrade is going to change my life. I can use wired or wireless CarPlay depending on if I have the wireless adapter. it’s just overall such a smoother system and it’s a glass screen so it’s not like I have to press hard on the old Sync two. I highly recommend that this be done on every vehicle.
For everyone wondering: I bought it on alibaba and talked to the seller extensively about my vin programming and the tools and she provided it all to me with the cost. I paid 300 USD with shipping to Canada.
Here’s the link. I reccomend her I live in Canada and it took one week to ship. She’s cheaper than everyone else.
r/FordExplorer • u/ImRed6000 • 18h ago
Hello all,
I have a 2017 Ford PIU and accidentally installed the wrong model of remote start module. After installing it the car would still start but the IPC and Radio as well as several other modules no longer communicate.
Forscan shows several U0100 codes for the BCM, Radio, IPC, just to name a few. Additionally only two branches of CAN are shown in Forscan and I believe theres supposed to be 3. Forscan also doesn't list the GWM, IPC, HVAC or APIM.
Even stranger, the car still starts and runs. I've tried all the basic solutions like disconnecting the battery, checking voltage to make sure its not low, checking resistance across pins 6 and 14 (63ohms) on the OBD, and checking fuses. I ordered a new OEM GWM and if I can't program it I'll take it to Ford for them to program. Just wanted to verify and see if this would actually fix the problem or if its another area I haven't looked to see. I thought it was the BCM however Forscan was able to trigger a module test which it passed, and it additionally was able to read and write from Forscan.
r/FordExplorer • u/Miserable_Plant_4926 • 20h ago
Hi guys, I've a 2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L Ecoboost, recently purchased with 116k miles. I'm hearing this noise while driving - it sounds like a light rubber paddle hitting something, or a high pressure spray occurring. It's intermittent, happens on accel, decel, and coast. There is more of a solid rotational sounding noise (like cv axle or driveshaft) I can feel also intermittent, but possibly more noticeable during light accel. I can feel it through the shift lever. Initially thought maybe HPFP but figure that would be going all the time.
I did recently replace the PTU fluid, and I'm unsure if it's related or if the sound was happening beforehand. I drained and filled through the PTU vent (extended hose).
You should be able to hear both sounds in this video though it's hard to pinpoint where it's coming from.
r/FordExplorer • u/Best_Egg_6199 • 18h ago
Got this 92', which I'm pumped about because I'm only the second owner and its in pretty good condition. However I feel a little crazy as I drive it because it makes this constant metal squeak... Its not anything I have in the car, and it does it as I'm driving, gets worse over potholes and stuff.
Is this something important that I should go to the machanic for, or is there just an easy way to fix it at home? I've tried googling it but so far I haven't found a video where it sounds the same. Sounds like its coming from the driver side.
(Don't comment on the dirty carpets, I promise, I'm cleaning them soon)
r/FordExplorer • u/DizzyAbbreviations40 • 18h ago
I replaced all timing components on my 2012 Ford explorer I ordered everything from my local ford dealer but when putting it back together i noticed the chain tensioner was different than my oem one part# (JL3Z6L266A) i had everything back together and somehow managed to confuse parts when doing a research to see if it’ll be okay to use that tensioner, i looked it up and somehow miss typed numbers it was showing something about it being used only on 4 cylinder engines, so i decided to reuse the old tensioner instead of using the new one. Old part#(BA5Z-6L266-B) will it be okay to reuse it? or should I take apart everything again and use the new tensioner as when doing the proper research i found out its the same but updated version part(JL3Z6L266A).
r/FordExplorer • u/Prestigious_Hawk8091 • 18h ago
Hello,
I have a 2017 Ford PIU that I installed a security plus module in (was the wrong model) and I fear two pins on the module got shorted causing the gateway module to fail on the PIU. Current symptoms of the vehicle are:
- IPC dead (confirmed power)
- Radio dead (when reconnecting battery, and quickly turning key to run radio will display Ford logo and shut off)
- HVAC, APIM, IPC to name a few are missing from module list in Forscan
- Confirmed all fuses across the engine bay fuse block and bcm fuse block are not burnt
- Confirmed 60ohms across pins 6 and 14 on obd with a battery voltage of 12.1-12.7 with key off, steady 14.7-14.9 with the vehicle running
Additionally trying a code reader shows 2 active can branches with multiple U0100 codes for the BCM, IPC, Radio, Data Link Module A and steering wheel controls. Initially I thought it was the BCM, however Forscan was able to trigger a module test on the BCM to which it did with no issues.
I have ordered a new GWM and plan on going to Ford for the programming, but want to verify if this could actually solve the problem.
r/FordExplorer • u/Smaaat08 • 1d ago
Hello, just want some opinions on what can be the issue, i have a 2014 ford explorer I got it over a year ago with 128k miles and now have 154k, at around 153k after i did a transmission fluid change it started to shift hard when cold, I just want to know if this normal in some way, or if there could be another issue. I used the right fluid & the correct amount, it was overfilled before i drained it.
r/FordExplorer • u/Fun-Pain4691 • 2d ago
Hey everyone! I am considering getting a used 2025 or 2026 Ford Explorer ST-Line and trying to ensure that the ST-Line does in fact always include the hardware necessary for the Blue Cruise Subscription even if it’s not activated or purchased yet for that particular vehicle? I’ve seen mixed answers to this. Thank you!
r/FordExplorer • u/AffectionateNewt9400 • 2d ago
Y'all. I'm seriously just looking for an SUV or truck younger than 2000 that has (hopefully) 100k miles or less (under 200k is fine) for $20k or less. Am I asking for too much? I've been showing the ones I want to a car friend of mine and he's found issues with Every. Single. ONE!!! I've had a Ford before. It was a good truck to me until it died. It was a 1989 I got it used and lasted until 2006. That's when I got my GMC. That baby lasted me to 2020. I could have gotten it fixed but I didn't have the money. Now I have some money stashed but I need help. What would you recommend? I don't want a car. I have bins I need to be able to toss in the back to go to events. Anything?
r/FordExplorer • u/Sea_Put_6413 • 2d ago
Are there any good options for fitting a manual transmission to the 5.0 engine in the 90s Explorer?
r/FordExplorer • u/burgerbob6478 • 2d ago
We recently purchased a used 2023 Explorer from our local dealer. It was brought from one of their sister stores and the salesman told us that if there was a second key it would be sent in from the other store in the next couple weeks and if not they would make one. Now I'm being told that there wasn't a second key and that we would need to buy one from the parts counter since the car was "Blue Certified" it didn't need a second one. Should I be a butt or how should I go about this?
r/FordExplorer • u/Im-Jaquette • 2d ago
Hi everyone im looking for advice on tire size for a lowered STA
I have a 2009 STA with 20x9 +35 front and rear with a spacer lowered with scale suspension
Currently building the truck and I do not have my wheels or tires yet. I like the look of 30.5 inch diameter tire and I’m planning to lower it to help with fitment on top of the slightly oversized tire diameter
On a different post on Reddit someone posted with 295/45/20 and I’m wondering if I can do the same and also lower it 2 inches. I have big doubts that it would be possible but would it???
Thank you in advance.
r/FordExplorer • u/Clockwork_ph4nt0m • 3d ago
I haven't posted in a while but I finally got a job that could sponsor my questionable decisions, like fabricating a duel exhaust with an X-pipe and Borla mufflers on my 14 Explorer. Doesn't sound no where near as bad as I anticipated and looks nice
I did the 2 weeks ago and all the dirt and sut in the bottom is making me think that I probably should've taken the photos when it was finished
r/FordExplorer • u/WorldViewSuperStar • 2d ago
1 observation I had was when it sometimes quickly jumps from Blue Cruise to manual on a Blue Cruise road.
EDIT** This is when NOT in Blue Cruise, sorry for confusion** And maybe not related, sometimes the car thinks there are no hands on the wheel and the car jerks to get your attention even though the hands are on the wheel.
r/FordExplorer • u/caddyescalade • 2d ago
Hello all. Wondering if any of you have experienced what my 2025 Explorer Platinum is doing and if there has been a fix? The main issue I’ve been having is my overhead interior lights are not functioning on a regular basis. I have also noticed some other weird issues like the media screen going black and not recovering unless sitting for a while. When black no inputs are accepted so the hard reset doesn’t work. There have also been times when the My View menus on my gauge cluster change on their own by adding or removing what I had previously selected. The dealership had it yesterday to perform a recall and to look into these issues but told me they cannot find a cause. They have tested the battery twice and it has passed both times. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
r/FordExplorer • u/WorldViewSuperStar • 2d ago
K&N Air Filter? 2025 Explorer St Line, people have success or satisfaction with it?
Thanks
