I used forscan and an obd adapter to change some values in the APIM module. Instead of the old oval resetting back after trying to edit the theme using the 2 button shortcut, it’s permanent. It’s beautiful now, I genuinely love my Explorer so much more.

The forscan tool is a pro plan but it’s free for 2 months which is what I did. The key gets sent to you on the same website you apply on within 20-30 mins.

2014 ford explorer 230k miles

My mother got a new 2026 Ford Explorer Platinum, not sure what the trim or engine is. I have not seen the window sticker from it to see what all the features their new SUV has yet.

Anyway one thing I had a question on is the second row seats. Its two single chairs with nothing in the middle. The third row is bench style seat. My mom tried to put all the seats down to haul something in the back. Third row went down easy, the second row not so much.

The second row is on metal tracks with a metal bar in the base front of it. This allows the seat to move up or down. One went fine, the other side did not. After looking over the manual I saw the middle seats have electric switches on the top of the seats that allow them to be raise up to let people out of the third row. I tried switch and it sounded like it was going, but when I had her start the car the seat easily moved then slid back with hardly any force after it wouldn't before.

I am guessing the seat was in the "up" position when the car was shut off. So I assume if the middle seat is like that when shut off it has to be on again to put the seat fully down so it can slide up and down the track? The middle seat was all the way up to the front passenger seat before the car was started.

Second question. I saw news reports last year about some SUVs that have third row seats that will fold down with an electric motor. And if something is in that seat when it starts the motor will keep going. The news said a little kid was in the seat when the button was hit. I think it was a Hyundai, and not a Ford. But does the Ford Escapes have third row seats like that?

I am guessing these are easy questions, but I am the guy she calls if she needs help with something tech wise on cars. I just have a 2016 Ford Escape myself.

Hi guys, I've a 2015 Explorer Sport 3.5L Ecoboost, recently purchased with 116k miles. I'm hearing this noise while driving - it sounds like a light rubber paddle hitting something, or a high pressure spray occurring. It's intermittent, happens on accel, decel, and coast. There is more of a solid rotational sounding noise (like cv axle or driveshaft) I can feel also intermittent, but possibly more noticeable during light accel. I can feel it through the shift lever. Initially thought maybe HPFP but figure that would be going all the time.

I did recently replace the PTU fluid, and I'm unsure if it's related or if the sound was happening beforehand. I drained and filled through the PTU vent (extended hose).

You should be able to hear both sounds in this video though it's hard to pinpoint where it's coming from.

My truck (so named for my grandma) was garaged since 1994 when she bought it new, and now that it’s mine, it will remain garaged!

Does anyone know what this noise could possibly be? Did pretty much entire front end(tie rods, sway bar links, control arms, shocks) new tires all around (back right has actually begun leaking slowly which has been a concern), new cv axle on the driver side as well but its sitting snug. Got squeaky brakes on the front drivers side, im also sometimes hearing an high/low pitched hum past 40 mph but no vibration to go along with it which leads me to suspect maybe wheel bearing? The noise completely goes away after about 25 mph and barely changes in tone when turning. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

(1997 Ford explorer 5.0 AWD)

Hello all,

I have a 2017 Ford PIU and accidentally installed the wrong model of remote start module. After installing it the car would still start but the IPC and Radio as well as several other modules no longer communicate.

Forscan shows several U0100 codes for the BCM, Radio, IPC, just to name a few. Additionally only two branches of CAN are shown in Forscan and I believe theres supposed to be 3. Forscan also doesn't list the GWM, IPC, HVAC or APIM.

Even stranger, the car still starts and runs. I've tried all the basic solutions like disconnecting the battery, checking voltage to make sure its not low, checking resistance across pins 6 and 14 (63ohms) on the OBD, and checking fuses. I ordered a new OEM GWM and if I can't program it I'll take it to Ford for them to program. Just wanted to verify and see if this would actually fix the problem or if its another area I haven't looked to see. I thought it was the BCM however Forscan was able to trigger a module test which it passed, and it additionally was able to read and write from Forscan.

Hello,

I have a 2017 Ford PIU that I installed a security plus module in (was the wrong model) and I fear two pins on the module got shorted causing the gateway module to fail on the PIU. Current symptoms of the vehicle are:
- IPC dead (confirmed power)
- Radio dead (when reconnecting battery, and quickly turning key to run radio will display Ford logo and shut off)

- HVAC, APIM, IPC to name a few are missing from module list in Forscan

- Confirmed all fuses across the engine bay fuse block and bcm fuse block are not burnt

- Confirmed 60ohms across pins 6 and 14 on obd with a battery voltage of 12.1-12.7 with key off, steady 14.7-14.9 with the vehicle running

Additionally trying a code reader shows 2 active can branches with multiple U0100 codes for the BCM, IPC, Radio, Data Link Module A and steering wheel controls. Initially I thought it was the BCM, however Forscan was able to trigger a module test on the BCM to which it did with no issues.

I have ordered a new GWM and plan on going to Ford for the programming, but want to verify if this could actually solve the problem.

Lately I have been having major shuddering issues on our 2017 explorer sport with the 3.5 EB... we bought it used with 120k with no issues... around 125k I drained the transmission (complete flush) along with the ptu oil change. Both fluids looked dirty but nothing concerning.. (smelled fine, no metallic, just dirty). Drove it up until 138ish until it started running poorly along with horrible mileage. I ended up changing the spark plugs & boots which fixed the problem (3 of 6 plugs had ceramic cracked). Now fast forward to a week ago at 140k miles, we left from Wisconsin to Tennessee for our vacation, vehicle ran perfect until we really started working it coming through the mountains, it has a HORRIBLE shudder around 65-75 mph when accelerating. While coasting the problem goes away, but once accelerating it shakes so bad the steering wheel shakes along with what feels like the entire front end. My first thought was the transmission is on the way out, HOWEVER it pulls great, shifts perfect, and has NO shudder under 60mph, only 60 and up. My second thought was coil packs, HOVEVER it idles great and we got on average 24 mpg from WI to TN (until we got into mountains then mpg dropped). We put just over 3k miles on it while on vacation, and it hasn't got better or worse, just the same consistent problem. But Here's where I get confused and need everyone's thoughts or opinions... when i shift into sport mode, the shudder gets MUCH better, it still has a shudder but not nearly as bad. Now I know when shifting into sport, it changes the transmission tuning along with pressures and shift points, as well as the engine ecu, timing, ect.... I've looked online and only find tsb's on the 2.3, not the 3.5eb. Im wondering if there is a "common explorer problem" that maybe im missing thats an easy fix or something simple im missing. If anyone has any help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!!!

Buffy 2.0
I need some ideas to make it mine. Exterior *
Beautiful vehicle. interior and exterior